Monts rouges de Triolet - Pointe centrale - La Bérésina
Approach # 1-1.20h
From the hut take the path that leads directly to the moraine, (ignoring the path that which climbs up to the right towards the 2ème pointe centrale (“Kermesse Folk” and “Profumo Probito”)). Sometimes you have to cross snow slopes to reach the moraine. Follow the moraine to the glacier bowl. Go up the right side of this to the foot of the spur. The start is 10-15m to the right of an obvious large corner.
All the belays have 2 bolts linked with cord. L# | 3| The sling at the next belay is visible from the start, length of the pitch depending on snow levels. Start 10-15m right of the corner,and take the easiest line trending right. No bolts. L#| 4b | Straight up. Bolts far apart. L# | 4c | Start on the left then straight up to the belay. One bolt low down then nothing. L# | 4a | Straight up then slightly leftwards. The belay is 5-6m below an overhang.
L# | 5b | Traverse to the left, then straight up, steep but well bolted. Go slightly rightwards to the belay. L# | 5b | Straight up the wall. Slabs with small, superficial cracks. Bolts far apart.
L# | 5c | Follow the crest of the ridge then traverse to the right under a suspended corner. Bolts more frequent. Superb, exposed pitch. L# | 5b | Climb the corner exiting left when possible then finishing on the right. Great pitch. L# | 5a | Go straight up. A short steep step with a bolt. Go slightly to the left, then straight up.
L# | 3a | Go straight up the broken rocks, no bolts.
L# | 3c | Go straight up to the left of the crest. Belay on the crest. 1 bolt
L# | | Horizontal ridge then a little step to reach the summit. No in-situ belay. (Easy)
Pitches 12, 11 and 10: best to down-climb, high risk of abseil rope snagging. Abseil from then on (risk of rope snagging on Pitch 7).
A recommended route with very good rock in the middle section. Superb mountain setting with good views from the summit.
The text and images in this page are available
under a Creative Commons CC-by-sa licence.