Rochers de Bocher - Cascade de Bocher
The icefall can be seen from the main road. It is worth taking the time to work out the approach. Due to it facing SW and its low altitude it is not often in condition.
Park at the Pélissier bridge on the road to Servoz. Do not take the path going S on the true right bank of the Arve, (walkers not allowed), but make your own way to the point where this track hairpins sharply to the left, where there is a clearing with several fallen logs. You can see the icefall from this clearing. Climb up through the forest below the icefall, bypassing a little cliff to the right and then trending left. Alternatively, and illegally, you can follow the zig-zags of the “forbidden” track, taking the hairpin on the left, just before thee clearing, by going underneath the netting to protect against landslides. These leads to a signpost. Go in the direction of Montvauthier, and continue to go up several hairpins until level with the foot of the ice fall. Contour through the forest to reach the start.
L#1 | 50 m | Tree belay on the right. L#2 | 50 m | Tree belay on the right. L#3 | 55 m | Tree belay on the left. . L#4 | 50 m | Starts easily, then a narrow bell shaped section through rocks. Exit by a snow slope. Tree belay on the right. L#5 | 60 m | Start on the snow ramp (15m), then a wall sustained at 3 (40m), exit by traversing to the right (5m). Tree belay on the right. L#6 | 50 m | Steep wall to the right at 4/4+ (10m). If there is a lot of ice, it is possible to take a less steep line on the left. Exit up a snow/ice gully (25m). This brings you to the foot an ice wall (10m) with a pine tree at the top in the middle. Possible to belay on a tree by traversing right for 5m.
L#7 | | A choice of three finishes, at varying levels of difficulty: a. the ice columns on the left, (belay sling above visible;) b. the steep section on the right; c. keep to the gully on the right, not steep.
Abseil back down the route using the belay trees. Take spare slings. One can also continue to climb up through the forest to reach the Montvauthier track and descend by that.
An icefall on top of smooth slabs. It needs to be well formed in order to place ice screws for protection. Having short screws is recommended.
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