Aiguille du Midi - Tournier Spur - Aiguille du Midi - Mont-Blanc - France

Aiguille du Midi - Tournier Spur

Aiguille du Midi - Mont-Blanc - France

Min / max altitude2500m / 3750m
Duration1 day
Main facingNW
Route typereturn_same_way
Gear- Matériel de mixte, friends, coinceurs.
Glacier gear required


From the Plan de l’Aiguille telecabin station, follow the path leading to the Pélerins glacier to reach the foot of the face. It is also possible to follow the track leading to “FIl du Plomb” and then traverse rapidly under the seracs to the foot of the route.


Climb up the gullies to reach the foot of a large rock step at its lower left corner. Here find an abseil point to descend obliquely to the left 50m, (1 or 2 abseils) down the gully on the left. (Possible to down climb in good snow conditions.) Go up along by the seracs then diagonally up a 50/60° slope for 200m. The state of the glacier in 2012 meant this section was very exposed to seracs out of sight above. Anything falling from them would come straight down the line of the gully. From here: - Go onto the upper rock buttress (4c then 5c). From the belay keep going left to find some pitons which indicate the route. Very good climbing, requiring placing protection.. - Go up the slopes of mixed leading to the ridge. There remains several non-negligible sections of mixed before reaching the Midi-Plan Ridge.

Take care that the snow conditions are stable for the gully and the exit.

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