The route goes up the S ridge and then diagonally up an ever steeper ramp, on the W side of the summit. Route finding is easy and the harder sections are well protected with pitons.

### Approach
From the Châtelleret hut, follow the path to the col du Replat and then, looking for the best terrain, up to the col de la Selle (3201 m). Locate a red *gendarme* with a hole at its base.

### Climb
From the col, follow the ridge and avoid the gendarme (and the following steeper section) by the right before getting back on the ridge and climbing it up to the base of the obvious, grey, ramp that rises towards the left. The ridge gets steeper as you approach the ramp.

Climb up the ramp, on its lefthand side before going back to the right towards a short chimney. Climb the chimney and then go left up a short slab to a good ledge (belay on 2 pitons).

From the ledge, go up the ramp (now decisively steeper) first by a crack on the left (5m, 4a) up to a 3 piton belay (optional), then a short traverse to the right (4c) to the base of the final crack which leads up the ramp to the end of the difficulties, below the summit. This pitch is 30m long. From there, reach the summit on easy but broken terrain.

### Descent
From the summit, follow the NE ridge (F, snow or broken rocks) to the Col du Replat and from there the normal route back to the refuge.

<p>The route goes up the S ridge and then diagonaly up an ever steeper ramp, on the W side of the summit. Route finding is easy and the harder sections are well protected with pitons.</p> <h2>Approach</h2> <p>From the Châtelleret] hut, follow the path to the col du Replat] and then, looking for the best terrain, up to the col de la Selle] (3201&#160;m). Locate a red <em>gendarme</em> with a hole at its base.</p> <h2>Climb</h2> <p>From the Col, follow the ridge and avoid the gendarme (and the following steeper section) by the right before getting back on the ridge and climbing it up to the base of the obvious, grey, ramp that rises towards the left. The ridge gets steeper as you approach the ramp.</p> <p>Climb up the ramp, on its lefthand side before going back to the right towards a short chimeney. Climb the chimeney and then go left up a short slab to a good ledge (belay on 2 pitons).</p> <p>From the ledge, go up the ramp (now desicelvely steeper) first by a crack on the left (5m, 4a) up to a 3 piton belay (optional), then a short traverse to the right (4c) to the base of the final crack which leads up the ramp to the end of the difficulties, below the summit. This pitch is 30m long. From there, reach the summit on easy but brocken terrain.</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>From the summit, follow the NE ridge (F, snow or brocken rocks) to the Col du Replat and from there the normal route back to the refuge.</p>

Col de la Selle

Pointes de la selle

Parcours intégral Col de la gandolière/replat S

La face S de la Tête S du Replat, début aout 2009

Les rochers brisés de l'arête NE

Un peu avant la cheminée et le début de la rampe

L'approche (les névés sont évitables mais de toute façon peu inclinés)

Contournement du gendarme par la droite

Pas de neige dans le couloir menant au Col du Replat coté E.

La fin de l'arête et le début de la rampe

L'arête NE de la Tête S du Replat, début aout 2009

Col du Replat avec le Rateau E en arrière plan

Pierre dans la 1ère partie

La Meije, vue de la Tête S du Replat

Tête S du Replat

Embrasement de la Tête S du Replat

Rateau E, vu de la Tête S du Replat

Arête SSE de la Tête Sud du Replat

Tête N du Replat versant Selle

Coucou à Nadège et Jérôme au Pic N des Cavales

désescalade ou rappel

on devine la vire en traversée à droite, puis un court passage raide avant d'atteindre la cheminée.

Tête S du Replat - SSW ridge

Camptocamp

camptocamp

<p>Première traversée (sens W-E, depuis le vallon de la Selle)&#160;: 3 août 1877 - Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau, Pierre Gaspard père et fils.</p>