Tête S du Replat - SSW ridge - Col de la Selle - Écrins - France

Tête S du Replat - SSW ridge

Col de la Selle - Écrins - France

Information
Min / max altitude2232m / 3428m
Duration2 days
Main facingSW
Route typeloop
GearSome slings and friends to protect the easier sections (especially if simul-climbing).
Source

The route goes up the S ridge and then diagonaly up an ever steeper ramp, on the W side of the summit. Route finding is easy and the harder sections are well protected with pitons.

Approach

From the Châtelleret] hut, follow the path to the col du Replat] and then, looking for the best terrain, up to the col de la Selle] (3201 m). Locate a red gendarme with a hole at its base.

Climb

From the Col, follow the ridge and avoid the gendarme (and the following steeper section) by the right before getting back on the ridge and climbing it up to the base of the obvious, grey, ramp that rises towards the left. The ridge gets steeper as you approach the ramp.

Climb up the ramp, on its lefthand side before going back to the right towards a short chimeney. Climb the chimeney and then go left up a short slab to a good ledge (belay on 2 pitons).

From the ledge, go up the ramp (now desicelvely steeper) first by a crack on the left (5m, 4a) up to a 3 piton belay (optional), then a short traverse to the right (4c) to the base of the final crack which leads up the ramp to the end of the difficulties, below the summit. This pitch is 30m long. From there, reach the summit on easy but brocken terrain.

Descent

From the summit, follow the NE ridge (F, snow or brocken rocks) to the Col du Replat and from there the normal route back to the refuge.

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