Cogne - Valeille - Pattinaggio Artistico

Approach # 1h, 400m height gain

Park near the caravaneige or at the parking for the Cascade de Lillaz, at the end of Lillaz. Follow the langlauf track, (true right bank of the river,) and after several hairpins head directly towards the icefall, (before the bridge which allows one to cross the valley.) It is the first complete icefall that you see on the right bank, a thin gully above a large stalactite, nearly always formed, (Pattinaggio Artistico Direct 5+). To reach the foot of Pattinaggio go up a ledge ascending from the right above the large stalactite. At the end of this ramp there is a belay, 2 bolts. Climb down a few metres to cross the icefall and go up to a belay 10m higher on the true left bank, (i.e. on the right.)

Route

P1: 30 m, 70°. Belay on the right, pegs. P2: 40 m , Steep start at 85° for a few metres, then 70°. Peg belay on the left. P3: Linking pitch, Peg belay on the left. P4: 55 m , 70° and snow, belay on bushes on the right. P5: 50 m , 70 °

Descent :

Abseil back down the gully. Also possible to go down to the left 100m then traverse a gully to reach a third gully at mid height. (Not obvious unless there are tracks.)

Nice five pitch route. Belays all in-situ.