Falaise de la Colombière - Fanfoué des Pnottas

A pleasant “scramble” up easy angled slabs with runnels, on superb limestone

Approach

Park at the Col de la Colombière. Take the path on the NW side of the col, going straight on after a few yards (first bend) direction Jallouvre. The path traverses to the W to a signpost for the climbing on the “Falaise de la Colombière”. Do not go up this path but continue traversing. (The route is visible a few yards after the signpost. It starts up the more solid looking rock at the left edge of the broken slabby area below the left end of the Falaise de la Colombière climbing area.) The path traverses beneath a limestone boulder field with some very sculptured, easy angled slabs above. It then starts to climb up the side of this feature. Just before the path almost touches the rock there is a grassy rake (ledge) running upwards from left to right, with signs of a faint path,(cairn.) Go up this rake, passing two belay points to the third (and last) one. This is the start of the route. The first two bolts are visible above leading to a very small overlap.

Route

L#1-3 | 3 | | Three pleasant pitches on good rock, with some easy ground, lead to a broad ledge with a descent path. L#4-5 | 2+ | | Two very short pitches lead to a belay at the foot of a steeper section. (Possible to do in one.) L#6 | 5b | | The left most line of bolts give a short pitch with a move at 5b at an overhang. L#6’ | 4b | | Alternatively, follow the next line of bolts to the right, which work their up then way back left above the overhang to a belay 1m to the right of the original. L#7 | 4c/5a | | Follow the vertical runnel, lots of features, to the top of this steep section. L#8-9 | 3 | | Two short, slab pitches lead to the top of the route.

Descent

Make two abseils, first from belay 9 to 7, second from 7 to 5. From here it is possible to easily walk off, first going right, facing outwards, then back left to reach the large ledge at the top of Pitch 3 and the descent path, which leads rightwards to the main Jallouvre path and so back to the near the foot of the climb.

Faces S, dries quickly, (with the possible exception of pitch 7). The bolts are very close together, ideal for gaining leader confidence, or weak seconds. Helmet recommended, lots of ibex.