- Traversée Aiguille N >> Lée Blanche >> Dôme des Glaciers - Dôme des Glaciers - Mont-Blanc - France

- Traversée Aiguille N >> Lée Blanche >> Dôme des Glaciers

Dôme des Glaciers - Mont-Blanc - France

Information
Min / max altitude1170m / 3892m
Duration2 days
Main facingN
Route typeloop_hut
Glacier gear required
Source

This route traverses most of the ridges of the left bank of the Tré la Tête cwm. It is a good alternative to the Domes de Miage, though a little harder and a lot longer!

Approach

From the Conscrits hut follow the Domes de Miage route until the Col Infranchissable plateau

Route

Ascent of the Aiguille N de Tré la Tête

Go obliquely rightwards to the N face of the Tré la Tête. Pass to the left of the large serac which blocks the foot of the face (also possible to go to the right but this is steeper and more exposed.) Climb up the glacier and then at about 3700m cross a bergschrund and gain the ridge which is followed to the summit, (steep about 45º).

Traverse to Dôme des Glaciers

From the Aiguille N, 2 alternatives:

Traditional alternate

As written in the Vallot guide : gain the Aiguille Centrale NW then as best as you can traverse the other two Aiguilles, before backtracking to find a descent on the vague SW ridge of the Aiguille Centrale NW (!?)

Modern alternate

Follow the ridge for a few dozen metres then descend steeply to the right down a snow gully (40-45°) which leads to the suspended glacier. Go S across the glacier, passing by the foot of the Aiguille Centrale NW to reach the Lée Blanche glacier. At about 3500m turn sharply to the W to gain, via a short slope (bergschrund), the col indicated at 3569m to the S of the Col de Tré la Tête. Follow the ridge to the S: traverse the Aiguille de la Lée Blanche, the N shoulder of the Aiguille des Glaciers, and reach the Dôme des Glaciers. Sections of mixed or rocks depending on the amount of snow.

Descent

From the Dôme des Glaciers, follow the snow dome then the rocky or mixed ridge which leads to the Col des Glaciers. From there go NW on a glacier which allows one to descend onto the Tré la Tête glacier (not pleasant at the end of the season, with a risk of stonefall on the true left bank.) Gain the true right bank of the Tré la Tête glacier in order to pass the Tré la Grande seracs (not always possible, depending on the state of the glacier?) From there you are back on the approach route from the hut.

It is never difficult but very long! You need good snow conditions that allow for quick progress. Check out first the state of the descent from the Col des Glaciers.

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