Grand Capucin - Voie des Suisses

Approach

From the Aiguille du Midi, pass the Col du Gros Rognon, onto the Glacier du Géant and up the couloir des Aiguillettes between the Grand Capucin and the Trident. Cross the bergschrund, (passed on the right, but good conditions needed,) go up the snow couloir at 45-50°, then broken rock steps to below the Bonatti terraces, next to the line of a large corner. (Which is the start of the Swiss route.)

Route # 5 to 7h

• Get to the corner (4b/5b) and climb it (6a in a crack to the left of the corner, 2 pegs, then 5b and 4b,) until a comfortable terrace, but sometimes covered in snow

• Keep to the line of the SE pillar (overall 5c/6a, some pegs but better with friends and nuts) until an uncomfortable belay under the left of the 1st black roof.

• Traverse rightwards and pass the roof on its right (lots of new pegs), strenuous section of 6b/A1.

• Climb a crack then pass the 2nd black roof, (6a.)

• Continue by some small slabs and a corner (4b/c) until a platform. Climb some slabs then a faint corner, (4b,) to the summit. Belay on two good bolts.

Descent

It is recommended to descend either, by the route “Voyage selon Gulliver” which follows the SE spur because the bolts are brand new, if there is no one on the route, or, by “O Sole Mio”, (also new bolts,) until the terrace at the top of pitch 5 of the Swiss route. Follow this back down to the foot of the route. There are new bolts at each anchor if you do a 60m abseil directly to the top of pitch 3. 60m abseils allow you to descend in just 6 abseils, (thus missing out at least two.)

Faces due S and can get very warm. Careful descending the couloir. 1st car up the Aiguille du Midi and last from the Helbronner; just possible in a day. Staying in the Torino or Cosmiques hut makes things more relaxed, for the less speedy.