Pointe Farrar - Claire Chazal - Pointe Farrar - Mont-Blanc - France

Pointe Farrar - Claire Chazal

Pointe Farrar - Mont-Blanc - France

Min / max altitude3160m / 3660m
Duration1 day
Main facingN
Route typereturn_same_way
Gear60m abseil ropes recommended Selection of small and medium sized friends Cord and maillons to replace the abseil points
Glacier gear required

This magnificent gully is on the NE side of the Grand Montets ridge, before the Cordier Couloir. Very accessible from the Gd Montets lift,

Approach # 30 min to 1h00 on foot, 10 min with skis

From the top station of the Grands Montets, go down the piste for 100m and go along to the right underneath the Grand Montets ridge until directly below the col between the Aiguille Carrée and the Pointe Farrar.


Overcome the bergshrund , often on the left, certically below the “Farraon” gully, in-situ belay. L# | 55m | Belay true right | Snow slope which is traversed to the right to reach the line of the gully. L# | 60m | Belay true right | Snow, with depending on the conditions one or two steeper steps of mixed. L# | 60m | Belay true left | Short ice step then a snow slope. L# | 60m | |Snow slope with the belayat the foot of the mixed section. L# | 60m | Belay true left | Mixed trending to the left to reach the foot of a corner. L# | 30m | Belay at the exit | Climb the corner, there is a good friend placement on the left to protect the exit. L# | 60m | Belay true left | A move of mixed to leave the belay, then traverse the snow rightwards to a belay at the foot of an ice wall. Intermediate belay possible. L# | 60m | Belay true left | Wall at 80/85° for about 15m then snow leading up to the right, with one or two ice steps, depending on conditions. End of the difficulties, one can continue for 3 or 4 pitches (mixed then snow) to reach the col. Abseil points at 60m intervals.


Abseil down the route

No sun on the face until the ridge. A fairly long route if you go all the way to the ridge. An obvious and varied gully

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