Arête du Chapeau à Cornes

Approach

From the Requin hut, go up to the glacier, overcoming a rock band with the aid of a fixed rope. Get onto the glacier and go up it bypassing some slabs at the base of the SW pillar coming done from the ridge. Go up the glacier, parallel to the pillar, until a little bowl directly below a gap in the ridge.

Route

The climbing starts at a slab (4b), then a series of easy steps to reach the ridge. The route finding is logical. Keep to the crest as much as possible, going around some pinnacles at the beginning to the right. At the foot of the last chimney, begin slightly to the right in a corner to reach a terrace by passing under a jammed boulder. From here the summit is reached easily.

Descent

Abseil down the W face (30m?). Then go onto the E face and down broken ground of rotten rock, (many abseil points in place.) Gain the Envers glacier and descend it to the start of the route. From there follow the approach route.