Tête de Bossetan - Les Terres Maudites - La Morzinoise / Vol du Korbé
The first ascent of La Morzinoise was in 1979. There are now several variants, with various levels of in situ protection. The climbing is mainly on relatively easy angled slabs but the bolts are often spaced far apart. The overall grading “D” reflects this.
Approach # 30mins
From the Chalets de la Chardonnière, go up the scree cone to the foot of the cliff, large boulder at its centre. The “classic” starts to the right of a nice slab. old red paint markings. (The bolts with gold hangars 10m to the right belong to “Maudits Bl’Héros”). An alternative start is up “Vol du Korbé”, more to the left under a damp, grassy area.
1st Section: Two options : Classic start: Belay points with a chain but no more than 4 or 5 bolts per pitch.
P1 4c 50m Go straight up above the red markings. Belay shared with “Maudit Bl’héros”. P2 4a 30m Start by traversing to the left than up 3m to the belay. P3 3b puis 4b Go up the gully, keeping mostly to the right, passing the first possible belay to reach a second one.
P4 4a Continue straight up to a belay just above a large ledge.
Vol du Korbé The second pitch lacks proper bolt protection. P1 5a+ 45m Foresee 20 quickdraws. Go straight up the slab, then trend rightwardsto a steep, grassy, (muddy,) section. Possible to belay after 25m. Continue up the grassy section to a large ledge. P2 4b 40m Go straight up above the belay (3c) then trend rightwards to a ledge, (again an intermediatary belay is possible.) under a small, steep wall. Here you join the Morzinoise classique. Climb the wall on the left (4a) to reach a narrowing at the foot of a corner. Climb the corner to a belay with a chain. This pitch is very exposed with a risk of hurting oneself at the little, steep wall and just below the belay. P3 5a+ 45m Continue up the corner (3b,) then up the steep slabs. Pass a possible belay to the right, then a second one to finally reach a large ledge with a comfortable belay, after having climbed a steep wall (5a+).
2nd Section Two options : The Korbbé variation is recommended. La Morzinoise No in-situ belays, only some old pegs. Take nuts, friends and friends, (large.) From the 4th belay, go along a ledge to the right for 4m then straight up for a few metes until you see some red paint marks. These lead off to the left along a series of ledges before coming back to the right via a half-moon shaped crack, (3 with some moves 4). This brings to the top of pitch 10 on the Korbé. Vol du Korbé Chain belays but very few bolts on the pitches; additional protection difficult to place (slabs). P4 5b 35m Go along the ledge to the right for 5m, then climb a corner (4c), leave it trending leftwards to a grassy corner and exit by curving around to the left, (3a, no bolts) to reach a ledge with the belay. P5 4a 30m Go straight up the pleasant, featured slab. P6 5a 35m Continue up the slab (4a) to a hanging belay, (chains) below a black (and often wet) overhang. Climb the overhang (5a) and belay above. (N.B pitch 6 and 7 require 65m of rope.) P7 4b 35m A long pitch, trending leftwards. Firstly climb the slab, then a step of fragile rock to reach a little narrowing to the left of an overhang. P8 4b 40m Go straight and climb over a steep step (4b) before going up a grasyy, but not unpleasant section (3a). You reach a first belay, Continue fro another 5m on the left, at the extreme right of a darker coloured slab. P9 4b 40m Climb the slab, trending leftwards, go around a ridge, then straight up the slab to the belay. 3rd Section Chain belays P10 4a 35m Start to the left then go right to the belay under a step. P11 4c 35m Climb the step then keep to the right side of the large slabs (4c, often damp,) to reach the belay at a comfortable ledge, some 10m before the very large roofs. P12 4b 70m (Traversing)) : 3c then 4b,(2 bolts, 1 old thread). Traverse horizontally to the left (3c) until a little wall of yellow rock beneath a large overhang, (1 bolt, 4b). Go up a little ridge to a grassy ledge. Belay on a peg and a rock spike. P13 4c 35m Climb the wall to the right of the belay (4b, exposed, 1 bolt then 1 peg to the left) to a grassy ledge. (Possible to belay here on 2 bolts). Climb the crack to the right of the ledge(4c, exposed) or the little wall directly above the belay. (5a/5b, exposed, 1 bolt, high up,) to gain the grassy slopes. (Belay possible at a fir tree or higher up at a bolt in a rock.)
Two Options : On foot: go up towards the Avouille then pass by the col de la Golèse (Also possible to continue to the Tête de Bossetan) or by the Pas de la Latte. Abseil: Stop at the top of pitch 12. Go down the voie Korbé in 50m abseils to the level of the large ledge. Then keep to the left, looking out, abseil down the “voie Maudit Bl’héros”.
In summer, the route loses the sun at 15-16h. The Voie Korbé has now become the classic line and when people talk of the “Morzinoise”, they normally mean the “Morzinoise by the Korbé variant”
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