Piz Bernina - Spallagrat - Piz Bernina - Engadin - Disgrazia - Switzerland
Min / max altitude3597m / 4048m
Duration1 day
Main facingS
Route typereturn_same_way
Gear4 slings, 5/6 quickdraws. 50m is better than a 30m rope if you chose to abseil.
Glacier gear required


From the hut, go to the foot of the SSE ridge (about 3840m). Follow the crest of the ridge to a first step which you pass to the W, (left looking up), a move of 3/4 very well equipped. Follow the crest to a fore-summit (La Spalla, 4020m), some moves of 2/3, also well equipped. Depending upon conditions, it is possible to bypass some of the difficulties on snow slopes. From the fore-peak, continue easily along the ridge to the summit, initially snowy and then rocky.


Return by the same route, abseil points in-situ. The first rock step can be avoided by going to the SW, 20m above the step, and descending a ramp which leads to the foot of the face.

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