Piz Bernina - Spallagrat - Piz Bernina - Engadin - Disgrazia - Switzerland
Information
Min / max altitude3597m / 4048m
Duration1 day
Main facingS
Route typereturn_same_way
Gear4 slings, 5/6 quickdraws. 50m is better than a 30m rope if you chose to abseil.
Glacier gear required
Source

Route

From the hut, go to the foot of the SSE ridge (about 3840m). Follow the crest of the ridge to a first step which you pass to the W, (left looking up), a move of 3/4 very well equipped. Follow the crest to a fore-summit (La Spalla, 4020m), some moves of 2/3, also well equipped. Depending upon conditions, it is possible to bypass some of the difficulties on snow slopes. From the fore-peak, continue easily along the ridge to the summit, initially snowy and then rocky.

Descent

Return by the same route, abseil points in-situ. The first rock step can be avoided by going to the SW, 20m above the step, and descending a ramp which leads to the foot of the face.

Creative Commons logo

The text and images in this page are available
under a Creative Commons CC-by-sa licence.