Tête Noire (Châtelard) - Le Pesseux - Tête Noire (Châtelard) - Haut Giffre - Aiguilles Rouges - Fiz - Switzerland

Tête Noire (Châtelard) - Le Pesseux

Tête Noire (Châtelard) - Mont-Blanc - Switzerland

Min / max altitude1000m / 1200m
Duration1 day
Main facingN
Route typereturn_same_way

Approach # 30mins

From the parking at the side of the road about 500m before the border on the Swiss side, spot the icefall and climb directly up to it, following a vague track. Tiresome if there is a lot of snow.


L# | 40m, A steep start, then easier to a comfortable stance in the snow, tree belay. L# | 40m Starts of vertically for 7-8m then easier to a fallen tree, belay.


Abseil, from a bolt and linked tree at the foot of a rock, avoiding letting the ropes go into the pool at the foot of pitch 2! Go up 5m to a tree with a sling and metal ring, to descend to the left of the icefall, 25m. It is also possible to walk down on the left.

Faces N, away from the sun A lot of flowing water which rarely totally freezes. Be careful with the iced over pools; they are deep!

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