Dalle à Bornet - Bravo Lapp - Dalle à Bornet - Haut Giffre - Aiguilles Rouges - Fiz - Switzerland
Information
Min / max altitude860m / 1140m
Duration1 day
Main facingSE
Route typeloop
Gear* Corde de 50 m * 11 dégaines * Quelques sangles peuvent être utiles
Source

Approach # 1h

From Les Granges above Salvan (1060m) Park just before the village. (Also sometimes parking is available at the far side of the village at the start of the track). Walk directly through the village keeping right on the “Rue du Village and not the road that goes upwards on the left. After the tarmac ends continue a short distance to a fork in the track. Take the left one, signposted “Tête des Crêtes”, which descends into the forest. Now follow the signs for “marmites glacières”. The path has recently been re-routed slightly to avoid some pastures. It passes between two boulders used as gate posts, (a bolt in each boulder!), passes above two old chalets then crosses a wooden bridge before arriving at a signpost “Tete des Cretes 1047m. Turn left here, signposted “Gorges des Dalleys”, to reach a signpost “Danger : montée des eaux”. A path now descends steeply for a long way (180m of descent), initially near a water pipe. There is a path on the left with lots of cairns, which crosses the stream, fixed rope, alt. 860m. Go up the other side and follow the fixed ropes until you come to a rope leading downwards on the right, red paint marks. The path now traverses until another fixed rope which helps one climb down a 15m corner, (abseil possible). Cross a broader gully then climb a little gully, (2m of fixed rope) to reach a ledge and the start of the climb on the right behind a tree. The route name is painted in red on the rock. If you get to “Milles dévisse”, you have gone too far.

Route

L# | 5b Short wall, corner, (2nd bolt for aid?) L# | 5b Slab and large flake L# | 2/3 Traverse to the left along a ledge which becomes wider, climb a little slab to the left. Belay on the right. L# | 4b Steep wall then a pleasant slab. L# | 4a Magnificent slab pitch, belay at the large stance. L# | 4a Another pleasant slab. Belay just below a broad ledge with trees L# | 2/3 Traverse along the ledge to the left for a few metres, then a short wall, then leftwards up easy angled slabs. Tree belay.

To get to pitch 8, follow easy ground to the left. When you see a cabin, traverse horizontally several metres to the left. (Do not go too near to the cabin where there are some harder routes.) Pitch 8 is an obvious corner crack (3 bolts visible) to the left of the route “lapp top”, 30m before the cabin L# | 5b Climb the corner, then slightly leftwards to another corner, which is bypassed by a slab on the left. L# | 5b A jamming crack, a slab and then another crack. L# | 4a A slab to finish.

Descent

From the top of the route, 1100m, climb a gully for a few metres, then traverse a slab leftwards to another gully, red markings. Go up this to reach a faint path. Follow this to the left, cairns. The path becomes more obvious. (The way down to the cabin can be seen lower on the right.) At around 1200m you reach a traverse path. Follow this impressive path as it wends it way through two bands of cliff, passing next to some very impressive modern routes. After a ladder and a bridge the path climbs upwards to join the main track leading back into Les Granges. It is possible to escape at the cabin, climb a giant staircase, red marks. Spot a large red arrow. (Attention, do not take the first upwards ledge on the left, with lots of fixed ropes. This is the descent from the difficult routes.) Finish by finding a metal ladder and a fixed rope. follow an exposed ledge to reach a flat area. Another fixed rope leads to the top.

Low altitude, faces SE 300m of climbing for a height gain of 260m. To avoid rope drag, it is recommended not to do the first 2 pitches in one. Stout shoes are recommended for the approach and descent paths. Care needed. A good climb in pleasant surrounding. The belays are often in the shade. Very well bolted (12mm bolts) The rock is becoming slightly worn, making the grades a bit stiff. A big thank you to François Roduit for creating a route accessible for a large number of climbers.

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