Triglav - NW ridge (Plemenice) - Triglav - Julian Alps - Slovenia

Triglav - NW ridge (Plemenice)

Triglav - Julian Alps - Slovenia

Information
Min / max altitude1015m / 2864m
Duration2 days
Main facingNW
Route typereturn_same_way
Gear- Casque. - Si vous l'utilisez, prenez le matos de ferrata.
Source

The NW ridge route starts from the Luknja pass (1758m), W of Triglav. This route is the most difficult hiking trail leading to the Triglav summit.

Access points

  • Vrata valley (N, 1015m)

  • Zadnjica valley (S, 700m)

Approach

Reach the Luknja pass (check the associated routes).

Ascent ## approx. 4h

The crux is the beginning of the ridge, starting eastwards, just above the Luknja pass. Eventually put on the harness for self-belaying. The ridge is vertical from the start and though well secured with cables and metal pegs, a good gym session cannot be avoided. Further up, the slope softens somewhat and cables are rarer, but the climb still stays airy and exposed. After a climb of approx. 500m and after descending into a notch, one reaches the large karstic plateau Plemenice below the W side of the summit edifice of Triglav (to the left, we see the upper edge of the N face, including the Sphinx / Sfinga). The markings take us across the plateau towards the SE (rather to the right) finally hitting into the S ridge pillar where we join the S ridge route coming from the right, from the Koča na Doliču mountain hut. Above the scree, the beginning is the crux, then a red gully (cables) leads to the Triglav Notch : Triglavska Škrbina, 2659m (here a route from the Dom Planika mountain hut comes in from the right) after which the route to the summit remains steep but always secured.

Descent

Either by one of the E ridge routes towards the mountain huts Triglavski Dom or Dom Planika, or by the S ridge route towards the Koča na Doliču mountain hut. One can of course also do a round trip (1 day).

  • The vertical drop indicated in the info above is the one to the Aljažev Dom valley accomodation (Vrata valley). To the Zadnjica access point, the drop is 2164m ! From the summit to the Luknja pass, the drop is 1106m.

  • National Park, so no camping.

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