A great climb, consistent in the grade, and in a superb setting

### Approach

1h15

From Buet, go up the Berard valley by the Pierre Blanc hut path until point IGN 1702m, cairn (45-60 mins). Take a path to the right, (N), which goes up the slope towards the cliff, cairns (15-20 mins). « Ete Indien » is on the right, with silver bolt hangars. To the left, slightly higher up, is the start of "Into the Wild", a newer route with glue s/s ring bolts, that goes at a similar grade. The routes cross over at the first belay.

### Route

| Pitch     | Description                                                                                                       |
| --------- | ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
| L1,5b,42m | Straight up, turning a pine tree on the left, small corner. " bolts with chain, shared with "Into the Wild"       |
| L2,6a,38m | Take the left hand line of bolts (the ones with hangers). Slab with cracks, straight up then to the left          |
| L3,6a,40m | Climb the vertical wall on the right, good holds                                                                  |
| L4,5b,40m | Go slightly to the left, then straight up to a large terrace                                                      |
| L5,6a,44m | A superb slab, then a bulge                                                                                       |
| L6,6a+,40m| Start with a leftwards rising traverse, then straight up. The crux pitch, very well bolted.                       |
| L7,6a,30m | Straight up                                                                                                        |

### Descent

Five 50m abseils down the route: B7-B5, B5-B4, B4-B3, B3-B1, B1-ground. The belay points for the last 3 abseils are 2m to the right of the belays used on the climb. Careful not to snag the rope on the 2nd and 4th abseils.

Great route, highly recommended.

<p>A great climb, consistent in the grade, and in a superb setting</p> <h2>Approach # 1h15</h2> <p>From Buet go up the Berard valley by the Pierre Blanc hut path until point IGN 1702m, cairn (45-60 mins). Take a path to the right, (N), which goes up the slope towards the cliff, cairns (15-20mins) «&#160;Ete Indien&#160;» is on the right, with silver bolt hangars. To the left, slightly higher up, is the start of &#8220;Into the Wild&#8221;, a newer route with glue s/s ring bolts, that goes at a similar grade. The routes cross over at the first belay</p> <h2>Route</h2> <p>L1 5b 42m Straight up, turning a pine tree on the left, small corner. &#8221; bolts with chain, shared with &#8220;Into the Wild&#8221; L2 6a 38m Take the left hand line of bolts (the ones with hangers). Slab with cracks, straight up then to the left L3 6a 40m Climb the vertical wall on the right, good holds L4 5b 40m Go slightly to the left, then straight up to a large terrace L5 6a 44m A superb slab, then a bulge L6 6a+ 40m Start with a leftwards rising traverse, then straight up. The crux pitch, very well bolted. L7 6a 30m Straight up</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>Five 50m abseils down the route: B7-B5, B5-B4, B4-B3, B3-B1, B1-ground. The belay points for the last 3 abseils are 2m to the right of the belays used on the climb. Careful not to snag the rope on the 2nd and 4th abseils</p> <p>Great route, highly recommended</p>

Mont Oreb

Vue sur L'ìle aux Razmokets

Mélèzes mal peignés

J'ai bien glandé toute la journée, c'est éprouvant, je vais me coucher.

Affluence à L5

Mont Oreb - L'Été Indien

Camptocamp

camptocamp

<p>Il existe un bivouac, qui sera utile lorsque les nouvelles voies d&#8217;escalade seront terminées&#160;: le bivouac des Chercheurs d&#8217;or].</p> <h2>Bibliographie</h2> <ul> <li><em>Le Buet par le Vallon des Eves</em> par Émile Deplasse, <em>La Montagne</em>, 1931, p.319&#160;: description d&#8217;un itinéraire d&#8217;ascension versant N du Mont Oreb.</li> </ul>