Lauteraarhorn - S Gully and SE ridge - Lauteraarhorn - Bernese Alps - Switzerland

Lauteraarhorn - S Gully and SE ridge

Lauteraarhorn - Bernese Alps - Switzerland

Min / max altitude1980m / 4042m
Duration2 days
Main facingS
Route typereturn_same_way
GearKomplette Skihochtourenausrüstung. Obwohl wir keinen Steinschlag bemerkt haben ist ein Helm empfehlenswert. Viele Schlingen, evtl. einige Klemmkeile oder kleine Friends.
Glacier gear required

Approach # 6-7hrs

From the Grimsel hospice, follow the track, which starts by crossing the dam, to the end of the lake. From here, follow the path markings through the loose scree to the Unteraargletscher. Go along this on its true left bank, passing the Lauteraar hut on the right, or follow the markings on the moraine, less agreeable, (loose rubble.) Go up the Finsteraargletscher and go right where it meets the Stahlegggletscher, to reach, at last, the Aar bivouac.

Route # 5-6hrs

From the bivouac, Go up to the top of the Strahlegggletscher to the S gully of the Lauteraarhorn. Climb the long gully (600m-900m, as the access to the gully is already steep.) From the col, follow the ridge on good rock to the summit. (There is a pinnacle which is awkward to down climb, can be avoided on the left.)


By the same route

You need to start very early in order to descend the S facing gully in good time. A very long route, beautiful and wild, The Aar bivouac is well equipped, with cooking utensils but you need your own stove. There is water near by.
It is also possible to start from the Lauteraar hut, (with guardian). Shorter approach but at least 8hrs for the ascent.

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