- Follow normal route from Chabod hut up to right side of face by cairns and tracks. Trails, rocks, glacier with crevasses.
- Turn left at right side of face. Ascent slope to approach Bergschrund, going around some impressive crevasses.
- Cross Bergschrund, preferably under line of climb along left rock band. Beware everything right of that may be plagued by rock fall, as is apparent by rocks and tracks on the snow.
- Climb up along the rock band. At the end  of that the slope eases off a bit into a quite long run out. It can be beneficial to get up the snow face above the right hand serac, which at some point is a bit less steep.
- All slopes end on the same snow ridge.
- Follow the ridge, ending on fairly easy rocks.
- Scramble over the rocks, passing the true summit (marked by a small plaque), ending above a small headwall opposite of Maria's summit tower.
- Climb off left side and get over to right side foot of Maria's tower.
- Climb up knotted fixed rope to Maria's statue.
- Follow normal route down, either back to the Chabod hut, or to the Emanuele hut, which has no crevasses but is longer and has several awkward passages.

<ul> <li>Follow normal route from Chabod hut up to right side of face by cairns and tracks. Trails, rocks, glacier with crevasses.</li> <li>Turn left at right side of face. Ascent slope to approach Bergschrund, going around some impressive crevasses.</li> <li>Cross Bergschrund, preferably under line of climb along left rock band. Beware everything right of that may be plagued by rock fall, as is apparent by rocks and tracks on the snow.</li> <li>Climb up along the rock band. At the end of that the slope eases off a bit into a quite long run out. It can be beneficial to get up the snow face above the right hand serac, which at some point is a bit less steep.</li> <li>All slopes end on the same snow ridge.</li> <li>Follow the ridge, ending on fairly easy rocks.</li> <li>Scramble over the rocks, passing the true summit (marked by a small plaque), ending above a small headwall opposite of Maria&#8217;s summit tower.</li> <li>Climb off left side and get over to right side foot of Maria&#8217;s tower.</li> <li>Climb up knotted fixed rope to Maria&#8217;s statue.</li> <li>Follow normal route down, either back to the Chabod hut, or to the Emanuele hut, which has no crevasses but is longer and has several awkward passages.</li> </ul>

Grand Paradis

Grand Paradis - Gran Paradiso NW face

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camptocamp

<p>Le Grand Paradis (Gran Paradiso en italien) est avec 4061&#160;m le plus haut sommet du massif du Grand Paradis, et le seul à dépasser 4000&#160;m. Sa voie normale est considérée comme une des voies les plus accessibles pour gravir un 4000.</p> <h2>Details</h2> <h2>Géographie</h2> <ul> <li>Ne pas confondre le sommet de la Madonne (4058&#160;m) avec le vrai sommet 4061&#160;m situé plus au N.</li> <li>Col associé à la proéminence&#160;: Col du Petit Saint Bernard] (2173&#160;m)</li> <li>Plus proche parent&#160;: Dôme du Goûter] (4304&#160;m)</li> <li>Parent principal&#160;: Mont Blanc] (4808&#160;m)</li> <li>Rayon de dominance&#160;: 45,1&#160;km</li> <li>Point de limite de dominance&#160;: arête de Tronchey à la Pointe Walker (Grandes Jorasses)] (4208&#160;m)</li> </ul> <h2>Toponymie</h2> <p>En Vallée d&#8217;Aoste il est appelé aussi «&#160;Grande paroi&#160;» ou «&#160;Mont Iseran&#160;», tandis qu&#8217;au Piémont il est connu aussi comme «&#160;Monte del Broglio&#160;».</p> <h2>Historique</h2> <ul> <li>La première ascension a été réalisée le 4 septembre 1860 par John Jermyn Cowell, William Dundas, Michel-Clément Payot et Jean Tairraz. Le lendemain, J. J. Cowell remonte au sommet avec Michel-Clément Payot, en comptant le nombre de marches que ce dernier avait taillé la veille&#160;: 1275.</li> <li>1<sup>re</sup> ascension par la face E&#160;: 15 septembre 1869 - Pierre-Joseph Frassy, Élisée Jeantet.</li> <li>1<sup>re</sup> ascension du couloir N du versant E&#160;: 19 août 1872 - Jakob Anderegg, Frederick Thomas Pratt Barlow, Élisée Jeantet, Laurent Lanier, S. F. Still.</li> </ul> <h2>Webographie</h2> <ul> <li>Wikipédia,</li> <li>Bergportrait sur Bergsteigen de.</li> </ul> <h2>Bibliographie</h2> <ul> <li><em>Two ascents of the Grand Paradis</em> par John Jermyn Cowell, <em>Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers</em>, II, vol. 2, 1862, p.408-426.</li> <li><em>Nouvelle ascension du Grand-Paradis et promenades alpines</em> par P.-J. Frassy, <em>Bollettino del Club Alpino Italiano</em>, 1869, n<sup>o</sup>15, p. 210-226&#160;: récit de la 1<sup>re</sup> ascension de la face E.</li> <li><em>Grand Paradis from Cogne</em>, <em>The Alpine Journal</em>, vol. 6, 1872, n<sup>o</sup>38, p.91-92.</li> <li><em>Deuxième ascension sur le Grand-Paradis, effectuée du côté de Cogne</em>, <em>Bollettino del CAI</em>, vol. 6, 1873, n<sup>o</sup>20, p.331-332&#160;: chronique de la 1<sup>re</sup> ascension du couloir N du versant E.</li> <li><em>The Grand Paradis, from Cogne</em>, <em>The Alpine Journal</em>, vol. 7, 1874, n<sup>o</sup>45, p.1-9.</li> <li><em>Autour du Valsavaranche</em> par Robert Puiseux, <em>La Montagne</em>, 1919, n<sup>o</sup>139, p.257-264&#160;en juillet 1911.</li> </ul>