Punta di Trubinasca - The New Ridge - Punta di Trubinasca - Engadin - Disgrazia - Italy

Punta di Trubinasca - The New Ridge

Punta di Trubinasca - Italy

Min / max altitude2998m
Duration1 day
Main facingS
Route typereturn_same_way
GearSet of friends, some slings (including rope slings with knots) and selection of stoppers has been used for protection. 1st and 5th belaying station protected by bolts (2+2 bolts). Another 2 bolts used for protection.

The Route is a variant of Spigolo Ovest-Sud] (G. Cristofaro, R. Minazzi, Pinardi, Riva, 1935).


From 6 pitches are two partialy same with the original “Spigolo Ovest-Sud”. It starts in the corner close to edge approximately 20m right from the “Spigolo Ovest Sud”. Climb up the corner approx. 8m. Then cross (traverse) slab to the right (bolt) until reaching crack system. Then follow crack to the corner until corner ends (possible alternative belaying station for 50m ropes). Short slab with finger cracks will lead you bellow overhang hand-crack. Climb the crack to the belaying station with two bolts (6a+, 55m). Second pitch is crossing slab and following a corner and ridge to the ledge bellow short vertical wall. Cross the wall and continue still following ridge (passing “menhir”) and crossing small “towers” to the 2 nd (40m, 5b), 3rd (35m, 3-4) and 4th (35m, 3-4) belaying station. 4th belaying station is placed in a corner bellow crack approximately 25m right from final chimney of the “Spigolo Ovest-Sud” route really close to the south edge. From 4th belaying station climb up by the wide (Off width) and hand-crack to the ledge (bolt) and still up following hand crack in a corner until the corner´s end (5th belay station with two bolts. 5c+, 40m). 6th pitch follows edge (35m, 4) leads to the top. 3rd and 4th pitches are partially the same as “Spigolo Ovest-Sud”.


Rappel down using “Trubifix” route.

60m has been used but there are good alternative belaying stations for 50m ropes as well.

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