Details
The “Crémerie” is the first large obvious ice fall you get to. It is very popular with beginners and gives several variations which are not steeper than 60º. It is broad enough to allow several parties at once. N.B There is a one pitch, steeper icefall called “Cerise” some 40/50m up on the right. The icefall on the left of Crémerie is Chantilly. 200m further left is Moby Dick. See photo.
Approach # 20mins
Shortly after leaving the roundabout on the main Chamonix to Argentière road to enter the parking area of the Grands Montets Cable car station, take a turn on the right, signposted “Chamonix Mont Blanc Hélicoptère” (CMBH). Park before the Helicopter station. Go up the right hand side of the valley, (looking up. Nearly always a well beaten track!
Route
L# | 40m A series of little bulges, 60° max. Belay at a little rock wall on the right or at the foot of an ice wall in the middle. L# | 35m Climb the ice wall (8-10m) at 80°, then a broad snow slope. Belay at a tree on the left at the foot of the final wall.
L# | 25m Final wall, 75° to the left, less steep on the right.
Descent
Two abseils of 50m

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