Cogne - Valnontey - Monday Money
Approach # 1h30-2h
From Cogne-Valnontey, Follow the footpath that runs parallel to the ski de fond track, then the footpath to underneath an obvious gully on the left. The foot of the gully is clearly marked with a sign “Repentance Super - Monday Money”. Go up the gully to the foot of the icefalls: Monday Money is the ice fall on the right, Repentance Super is the one on the left
P1 Climb the steps, 35 to 50m, 70 to 90° depending on the line taken. Bolt belay on the left, on a compact slab. P2 Continue up the next series of steps, 40m, 80°, bolt belay on the right at a ledge protected by an overhanging slab. P3 Go up the icewall in the centre, sustained. If the is plenty of ice, at 30m trend to the right, where the ice is less steep, and climb the last short step to reach the start of a snow/ice gully. If the ice is thin after the first 30m continue straight up to the snow.ice gully, (very sustained), 45m, 85 à 90°. Bolt belay on the right at the start of the gully. P4 The snow/ice gully, 55-60° with a 10m ice step at 80° max. 40m. Bolt belay on the right before the final step P5 Climb the ice wall in the gully which steepens. The last part, which catches the sun, is nearly vertical and can be delicate in certain conditions. (Maybe have to exit on grass.) 40 m, 85 to 90°, Bolt belay at the exit of the gully, above the bushes.
Variation: After the first 30m of pitch 3, you can go rightwards to reach a peg belay, (passage of M4 early season, just before the belay.) Then make a rising leftward traverse (4c/M4 early season,) to reach the snow/ice gully of pitch 4.
This route is used as a reference route for the ice grade. Do not modify the grade for this route. If you think it is wrong, please contact the site moderator : email@example.com.
Atmospheric route with a good finish. Great views of Super Repentance. Excellent double bolt belays. The Damilano/Perroux guidebook only mentions the first three pitches and without much detail.
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