Pointe Centrale du Sapey - Délit de fuite
Eleven pitches of good and varied climbing at a homogenous grade in a pleasant mountain setting.
Follow the track that goes to the Col de la Buffaz and passes the Grosse Pierre chalets. Take a good path to the left, (tourist signpost for walkers). At a junction in the woods of three paths, take the first to the right. Then keep your eyes open! to spot on the left a faint path which climbs directly up through the woods beneath the cliffs and then up a scree slope. At the level of the rocks go rightwards along the path at the foot of the cliff. “Delit de Fuite” is after a single pitch/top roping section and before a cave. The name of the route is painted in orange on the rock.
L# | 5c | Nice wall, sustained L# | 5b | Traverse to the right, two awkward moves L# | 6a | (or 5c/A0) A bouldering move L# | | Traverse to the right along ledges to belay at a pine L# | 5c | A nice wall L# | 5b | Climb the nice runnels, (cannelures), then a grassy ramp L# | 5c | A pitch up a crack to the left of a little pillar L# | 5c+ | A pitch to the left up runnels, flakes and slab climbing L# | 6a | In the line of a pillar, some moves of 6a, a little overhang to start. L# | | Along a ledge L# | 5c | Magnificent, sustained slab, 45m L# | 5b+ | A zig zagging pitch up slabs and short steeper sections L# | 5b+ | Exit on runnels to arrive at the final belay
- It is possible to abseil down the route, but be careful about loose stones if there are others climbing.
- Descend by the “Couloir du Freu” between the central Pointe du Sapey and the Aretes du Sapey. From the top of the route follow the ridge to the left (SW), then cairns and a faint path on the NW-facing side for 15-20 minutes. This leads to the Col du Freu (1621m) which permits crossing over to the SE-facing side. There is a cairn at the start of the steep, grassy couloir/gully. Descend this, being careful with stonefall, to the scree slope and the approach route to the foot of the climb. This descent takes about two hours so take suitable footwear.
Very well equipped
The belay bolts are good but only joined together with old, thin slings.
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