Aiguille d'Entrèves - SW >> NE traverse - Aiguille d'Entrèves - Mont-Blanc - Italy

Aiguille d'Entrèves - SW >> NE traverse

Aiguille d'Entrèves - Mont-Blanc - Italy

Min / max altitude3371m / 3600m
Duration1 day
Route typetraverse
GearMaterial usual de glaciar y roca (cintas). Eventualmente algún fisurero para la bajada en el sistema de fisuras.

The traverse of the Aiguille d’Entrèves can be done in either direction, but the going SW to NE (with a move of 4b in ascent,) seems more logical.

Approach # 1.30h

From the Torino hut ago NW to the col des Flambeaux. Descend to the W and pass under the N face of the Aiguille de Toule. Continue W a little towards the Tour Ronde, then climb up due S to the col d’Entrèves.

Route # 2 hr

Go up the ridge, very easy at the start, passing sometimes on the E side sometimes on the W side. Just after a down climb at a little gap, (turn the ridge on the right which is easier than down climbing on the left, which nonetheless is very enjoyable,) climb the other side by a short passage of 3b. The route becomes more airy: you keep to the crest of the ridge. Then there is a move of 4b, (a sling in place to pull on,) and some bolts a little higher up, which leads to the summit

See also the route description for the traverse NE-SW, .

Descent # 1hr + 1hr to the Torino

From the summit climb down a system of easy angled cracks, but not always easy to protect, (use nuts, possible to make an abseil, bolts in place.) Continue down easy, mixed ground, along a horizontal section before climbing down broken rocks to reach a snow slope. You rejoin the approach path by going down the NE snow slope, (35-40º,) towards the foot of the Aig du Toule.

A short rock route, (mixed early in the season,) possible to do in half a day.

Possible to bivouac just before the col des Flambeaux, or at the foot of the Tour Ronde.

Creative Commons logo

The text and images in this page are available
under a Creative Commons CC-by-sa licence.