Grande Aiguille d'Ansabère - E Face - Grande Aiguille d'Ansabère - Béarn - Balaïtous - Partacua - France
Information
Min / max altitude2050m / 2377m
Duration1 day
Main facingE
Gear1 juego de fisureros y friends, 3/4 pitones variados.
Source

This beautiful route is the most accessible of the N and E faces of Grande Aiguille d’Ansabère ; it is consequently the most classic route without however being overcrowded.

Approach # 2h

The routes of the N and E faces of Grande Aiguille d’Ansabère can be reached in two ways :

  • from Pont Lamary, climb to the Ansabe huts, reach the base of the Petite Aiguille d’Ansabère and swing to the highest one, NE slope, to go via a traverse in the cree to the base of Grande Aiguille d’Ansabère.

  • from the Pont Lamary, reach a first plateau ; go up the face of the Escoueste dale and, after the huts of the same name, climb herbish croups then cree to reach the base of the wall. Go around the base of the face on the left to reach a deep chimney. The route starts above this deep chimney after reaching the party ledges at the summit of the foothills.

Route # 4h to 5h

Completely climb the chimney until the broad party ledges located at the summit of the foothills (UK-3a /US-5.3). Cross a very steep crack followed by an dihedral (6a+). A small roof crossed on the right-hand side makes it possible to reach a less steep area (V+ then UK-3a /US-5.3, UK-4a /US-5.5). Via easy ground, you reach the base of a large crack on the right (II, UK-3a /US-5.3). Follow it on three pitches (UK-5a /US-5.8, V+). An ultimate steep pitch in fragile rock remains to be crossed to reach the summit (UK-5a /US-5.8).

Descent# 2h

Below the summit (W slope) you reach a “rappel” which descends to the notch between the Grande Aiguille and the Pic d’Ansabère. On the right you reach a chimney which leads to the Pic summit. From there, you go to the Pass of Pétragème and Pont Lamary.

The route completely faces east, and is in the sun from early morning. The first pitch is without doubt the most difficult doubt and will wake you up. The last pitch, which is not difficult, requires the most attention.

Access

From Pau, go to Oloron Sainte Marie and follow the RN 134 towards Col du Somport. A few kilometres after Bedous, turn right towards Lescun. In the village go towards Ansabère and at the Pont de Mazouza follow the track (in bad condition) to Pont Lamary.

Accommodation

There is excellent lodging in Lescun at La Maison de la Montagne (Tel: 05.59.34.79.14), a hotel (Tel: 05.59.34.71.54) and a camp-site one kilometre after Lescun.

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