Classic route on good rock, near to the hut. It is possible to combine with a traverse to the Évêque.

### Approach

From the Couvercle hut, go to the north along the E face of the Moine. Get to the next couloir to the right of the couloir coming down from the Moine-Nonne gap.

### Route

Start at a little steep wall on the left flank of the spur to the left of the couloir and gain the crest of the spur. Climb this spur (3b, 4b) for three pitches to a gap. Climb the next step in the middle, (3b) then follow a ledge to the right for about 8m, the angle of the ridge eases. Go straight up above and pass onto the W side to climb some cracks, come back onto the crest and reach a terrace, (possible to avoid these sections by traversing beneath.) A pitch leads to a ledge at the foot of a fore-summit, which you go around on the right by descending several metres. Climb the S summit tower by the side facing the Moine, descend by the same way or by abseil. Traverse to the « rasoir », (very thin ridge,) and follow it for three pitches, exposed but not difficult to reach the N summit. (3b, 4b).

### Descent

Continue along the knife edge ridge to at a large platform. From here you stay always on the Talèfre side. Traverse several metres to the left, following some cairns, until you come to a large cairn on a large boulder with a flat top. From here you must descend straight down the face by some ledge, (cairns clearly visible from above) and not continue traversing. (There is an enormous boulder which you can pass underneath, if you are here you have gone too far, go back several metres until you are level with the cairn. Turn to the left towards a couloir, (small abseil of 20m, belay in place,) and follow the obvious cairns to where the rock meets the bergschrund, (true right bank of the couloir.) A reddish sling around a large block provides an abseil point, from which you can reach the glacier and so join the approach route.

**NB:** *in case of a late descent, (soft snow,) or dry conditions, it will be simpler to continue descending the easy ledges at the side of the couloir.*

- Nice varied route, glacier approach, climb up a spur, enjoyable ridge with a knife edge finish, and a descent fit for chamois.

- It can be done either in boots or rock shoes, moving together.

<p>Classic route on good rock, near to the hut. It is possible to combine with a traverse to the Évêque.</p> <h2>Approach</h2> <p>From the Couvercle hut, go to the north along the E face of the Moine. Get to the next couloir to the right of the couloir coming down from the Moine-Nonne gap.</p> <h2>Route</h2> <p>Start at a little steep wall on the left flank of the spur to the left of the couloir and gain the crest of the spur. Climb this spur (3b, 4b)) for three pitches to a gap.<br /> Climb the next step in the middle, (3b) then follow a ledge to the right for about 8m, the angle of the ridge eases. Go straight up above and pass onto the W side to climb some cracks, come back onto the crest and reach a terrace, (possible to avoid these sections by traversing beneath.) A pitch leads to a ledge at the foot of a fore-summit, which you go around on the right by descending several metres. Climb the S summit tower by the side facing the Moine, descend by the same way or by abseil. Traverse to the «&#160;rasoir&#160;», (very thin ridge,) and follow it for three pitches, exposed but not difficult to reach the N summit. (3b, 4b).</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>Continue along the knife edge ridge to at a large platform. From here you stay always on the Talèfre side. Traverse several metres to the left, following some cairns, until you come to a large cairn on a large boulder with a flat top. From here you must descend straight down the face by some ledge, (cairns clearly visible from above) and not continue traversing. (There is an enormous boulder which you can pass underneath, if you are here you have gone too far, go back several metres until you are level with the cairn. Turn to the left towards a couloir, (small abseil of 20m, belay in place,) and follow the obvious cairns to where the rock meets the bergschrund, (true right bank of the couloir.) A reddish sling around a large block provides an abseil point, from which you can reach the glacier and so join the approach route.</p> <p><strong>NB&#160;:</strong> <em>in case of a late descent, (soft snow,) or dry conditions, it will be simpler to continue descending the easy ledges at the side of the couloir.</em></p> <ul> <li><p>Nice varied route, glacier approach, climb up a spur, enjoyable ridge with a knife edge finish, and a descent fit for chamois.</p></li> <li><p>It can be done either in boots or rock shoes, moving together.</p></li> </ul>

La Nonne

Accès aux nouvelles échelles du Montenvers

Les Courtes

Le Couvercle

Rasoir de la Nonne

MB & co vu des arêtes de la Nonne

Agnès à l'attaque du dernier gendarme de la Nonne

L'Ancien Couvercle...

De retour au refuge

Echelles du Couvercle

Sur l'arête peu après la brèche

Vue vers les Courtes

Grandes Jorasses vues de la montée au Couvercle

Pierrier sous les Egralets

La Nonne - S >> N traverse

Camptocamp

camptocamp

<h2>Historique</h2> <ul> <li>Première ascension (par l&#8217;Arête S, descente face E)&#160;: 23 juillet 1890 - Auguste Cupelin, Charles et Mary Pasteur, M<sup>lle</sup> Pasteur, Claude Wilson.</li> <li>Première ascension du bloc sommital N&#160;: 6 juillet 1922 - Auguste Amiez, Charles Collette.</li> </ul> <h2>Bibliographie</h2> <ul> <li><em>The Alpine Journal</em>], vol XV, 1890, n<sup>o</sup>110, p.329&#160;: note (en anglais) sur la 1<sup>re</sup> ascension.</li> <li><em>Aiguille de la Nonne</em> par Charles Collette, <em>La Montagne</em>, 1929, p.189-190&#160;: note sur l&#8217;ascension du bloc N.</li> <li><em>Aiguille de la Nonne</em> par Paul Sisley, <em>La Montagne</em>, 1930, p.268 sur l&#8217;ascension du gendarme N.</li> </ul>

<h2>Pedestrian access</h2> <p><strong>In summer</strong>&#160;: From Montenvers, get onto the Mer de Glace and go up it to the start of the Leschaux glacier. On the true right bank there is a large white painted square. This marks the start of ladders, which are fairly steep and strenuous, (harness with a sling, helmet.) After the ladders follow the path to the hut. (<strong>3-4h</strong>)</p> <p>It is also possible to follow the &#8220;Balcon de la Mer de Glace&#8221; route, longer in time but more pleasant. Start as for the Charpoua hut, then follow the path, ladders, cables etc to the hut. (<strong>4-6h</strong>)</p> <p><strong>In winter</strong> Two possibilities&#160;: Either from Montenvers, easily but long up the Mer de Glace or the Aig du Midi, following the Vallee Blanche descent.</p> <p>As the ladders are not there in winter you have to either&#160;: Go up a gully to the true right, left looking up, of the Talefre seracs. Careful if there is not enough snow then rock slabs will be exposed. Or the true left side of the seracs, (Pierre à Bérenger).</p> <h2>Details</h2> <p><strong>Contact</strong> Private telephone of the warden: +33(0)4.50.47.23.99 <strong>Bivouac</strong> Bivouac is allowed from sunset to dawn <strong>Winter Room</strong>&#160;: 22 places in the old hut. No wood, blankets, some pots and plates. 8.50€ a night. <strong>Remark</strong> After the closure of the hut some of the ladders at Egralets are removed. For weekends in April and May it is necessary to reserve by telephone first: 04.50.47.23.99</p>

Refuge du Couvercle