La Grave - Les Fréaux - La croupe de la Poufiasse

The classic grade 4 climb in La Grave. It is often in good condition and well-travelled.

Approach

From Les Fréaux, cross the Romanche river on the bridge below the village. Go left and follow the tracks to a clearing with a shed, below the ice-fall with its characteristic central wall. Go up the couloir to the foot of the ice-fall.

The climb

P1 & P2: Easy climbing. Belays on the left (spits) P3: 40m of 85° ice. Go up the wide column of grade 4 to 4+ ice depending on conditions. Bolted belays on the left when there is enough ice, or on the right if there is little ice. The pitch can be split in two by using an intermediate belay station on the right (but it is sometimes difficult to access). Go up a snow slope to the base of the next steep ice section. The latter is pretty wide. P4: Short section of 85-90° ice. Remonter le ressaut, un court passage à 85/90°, relais en sortie sur la gauche sur arbre. P5: Easy Belay on the large tree on the right (left bank).

Descent

Abseiling down Several abseil stations are bolted on the right and left. With a 50m rope, the fastest option is to go down on abalakhovs from the top and use the confortable belay stations. 4 abseils.

On foot From the top of the third pitch (crux), reach a snow couloir on the right (looking down). Down-climb the couloirs, including a 10m section of 70° ice (abseil possible), and continue in the trees, going leftward to go back to the foot of the ice-fall.