Paretone di Arnad - Diretta al Banano

Approach

From the small parking area, follow the path with the red arrows and with the signpost “Machaby” at the start, (rock steps, some fixed ropes). You come to a path that goes along the bottom of the cliff at “Bucce d’Arancia”. Follow the ledge leftwards until the start of “Diretta al Banano”. (Names at the bottom of the routes on black plaques).

Route

9 well-bolted pitches bring one to near the summit of the Paretone.

L1 5c+ Delicate move at the 4th bolt. The pitch crosses pitch 1 of “d’Anchorage”. Belay on the left. L2 5b Straight up. L3 5a+ Belay after a large grassy ledge, directly at the foot of the next pitch. L4 5c Up the pleasant corner. L5 5c Technical L6 5c Slab and friction climbing not too sustained L7 5c+ Slightly strenuous, with nice moves L8 5a
L9 3 The angle eases to join the summit area

Descent

Descend to gain the quaint, little village of Machaby, then go sharply to the right, (do not follow the stony track to the left going down the valley,) to follow a path with red paint marks, (fixed ropes, easy rocky sections equipped with metal rails, steps etc,) to the foot of the routes

• Can be climbed most days of the year, (faces SW and at low altitude.)

• Follows big slabs with lot of holds, on solid rock and generally not very strenuous