Aiguille de Péclet - Northern ridge
Ascent: The northern ridge of Aiguille de Péclet is a very beautiful Alpine route in high mountains which makes it possible to elegantly climb the Aiguille by an original circuit.
Leave your car near the bar “Marine”, or at the summit of the “La cascade” depending on the road conditions. Ascend the”Béranger” ski slope on foot to arrive at the summit of Funitel de Péclet. It is possible with a 4x4 to drive to this point at 2940 meters at the end of the season. Otherwise, count on a good hour’s walk from the bar of the “Marine”. If summer skiing is operating on the Péclet glacier, you can take the Funitel directly, but one hour later.
When you arrive at the summit of Funitel, put on crampons and tie on to follow the line of Chair lift of 3300 on the glacier. Towards 3100 meters, the slope becomes steeper exceeding 30 degrees. When you arrive on the north ridge of Péclet, the view is splendid over the Gébroulaz glacier below. It is worth it to take a short break.
Keep the crampons and follow the edge of the ridge very easily moving together. At the level of the “Bréchu” corridor a steeper snow slope ensues. Go up it and continue by the rock ridge without the crampons if conditions are good. Small easy downclimbing alternates with a few small pitches. Do not climb on the last pick which rises just before the summit, but traverse by a ledge descending the Thorens Valley side into a corridor which overhangs the western face of the Péclet glacier. Locate rope slings on the left which mark the start of a rappel of around 15 meters which brings you back on the Péclet glacier.
From Péclet glacier put the crampons back on to climb the last steep slope under the summit. You pass in the rocks or the snow in two pitches depending on the conditions.
At the summit of Aiguille de Péclet, there is a splendid 360 degree view over Mont Blanc, la Vanoise and les Écrins. It takes 3 hours of climbing after the summit of Funitel.
Descent: From the summit of Aiguille de Péclet, return in the opposite direction by descending the west face of Peclet glacier. The start is steep(40 degrees), then the slope becomes quickly gentler. Fork to the left around 3450 meters towards the southwest South descending to pass the often marked bergschrund. Traverse until under Roc de Saint Pères, then descend in the line of larger slope to approximately 3150 meters. Fork to the right on the flat area of the well marked glacier in order to pass the seracs. Continue the descent on right bank of the glacier until the moraine at around 2900 meters. From this point, you reach and descend the Tête Ronde ski slope to return to the cars near bar Marine. It is also possible to go up slightly and follow the Christine slope in the opposite direction which leads back to the summit of Funitel. It takes 1 hour of descent to the moraine.
Variant: It is possible in good conditions to descend the west face on the right bank of the glacier, but the slope is more unrelenting. From the summit it is also possible to descend by the normal route to reach the Chavière glacier via a cree and the Thorens pass.
The HD is not very important, but leave well early because the descent of the western face is exposed to stone falls.
The route is primarily glacier, but the rock ridge easily takes 1 hour.
Access: From Moûtiers, go to Val Thorens. At the entry of the station, descend forking to the right, then on the left before the ski patrol to take a dirt road. Follow it until “Chalet de Thorens” which is a restaurant at the start of the Moraine chair lift. Fork on the left to continue the road which becomes more difficult. Stop at the bar “Marine” which is a restaurant or at the summit of the Cascade chair lift depending on the road conditions. If you have a 4x4 it is possible to climb as far as the summit of Funitel at 2940 meters.
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