Tour Ronde - E face (Normale route)

One of the classics of the area, often (too) popular. At the end of the season, when the face has very little snow, the E ridge is preferable. This can be reached directly at the level of the Col Freshfield.

Approach

From the Torino Hut

Cross the Col des Flambeaux - NW, 3407m – then descend diagonally to the NW under the Aiguilles de Toules. At the plateau around 3300, go obliquely to the SW to climb up the glacier leading to the Col d’Entrèves.

From the Aiguille du Midi

Descend the classic Vallée Blanche via the Col du Gros Rognon, pass under the Pointe Adolphe Rey and climb up to the S, bypassing a heavily crevassed area, to get to snow bowl below the col d’Entrèves.

Route

Towards the centre of the E face of the Tour Ronde go up large snow slope to the bergshrund, which usually does not present any difficulties. Overcome the bergschrund and go up for 150m at 45º, traverse to the right at the level of a large block, (mixed) towards the SE ridge, In the top quarter of the slope some large rocks form an enclosed gully.

Depending on the conditions:
1. Go under a little rock tower to the N and pass several easy large rocks, then back onto the snow slope which leads up to the SE ridge, (50° for the last few metres 2. Continue straight up the slope. The gully narrows and steepens with the possibility of rock showing through.

Exit onto the SE ridge and follow, more or less, its crest, passing several easy rocks to the final step. Overcome this by going to the right, 30m of easy rock

Descent

By the same route.

• E facing so depending on the season do not leave too late

• Varied route : glacier - face - ridge. Short approach.

• Possible with skis. (See French version for comments)