S summit via Col Sup du Tour (from the Albert 1er hut)

Route

From the Albert 1er hut, follow the path that runs parallel to the glacier, initially lots of large cairns, then even more smaller cairns, not always helpful. Drop down onto the glacier and go up the true right bank of the Tour Glacier , passing the Signal Reilly until you turn left, leaving the main track to the Col du Tour, to climb up to the Col Supérieur du Tour (3288m). After the col go up under the Aiguille Purtscheller to avoid a zone of crevasses and reach a little plateau (3420m) under the aiguilles. Cross the bergschrund, usually to the left, below a little col, then traverse to the right a long ledges to reach the N ridge. There remains only several metres of easy climbing up this ridge to the summit.

Variant: S ridge After crossing the bergschrund, reach the S ridge by going up diagonally to the left and then follow it to the summit.

Descent

By the same way.

Variant: traverse to the Trient hut Descend at first towards the Col Supérieur du Tour. Then go towards the Trient hut, firstly passing below the Tête Blanche then traversing the Trient plateau towards the Col d’Orny.