Jakosiri - Chachacomani traverse by the south ridges
A stunning mixed route on excellent rock offering incredible views on the altiplano. This route leads to one of the less climbed 6000er of the cordillera real
For the pleasure (and memory) of the first ascenders, the route descritpion is very precise but it can be summarized to: follow the ridge the best you can!
Day one, altitude camp (+700, 5-6h)
Walk up to Chachacomani’s altitude camp (it is possible to split this step in two)
From the village of Alto Cruz Pampa (seek guidance from locals to reach there, we recommend asking to the parish of the village of Peñas), follow th valley on the left (path) then cross to the other side when you reach a sandbank. Follow the valley still for half an hour along 15m cliffs. Go up on the left then to reach a hanging valley (path if you find it!). Go up this valley for half an hour then on the right follow a moraine leading to the altitude camp (more and more cairns as you go up). The camp is just at the foot of the glacier
Day 2, climb (+1000, 10h)
Start of the route (2h)
Ascend the glacier following the normal route until a plateau around 5450m. Cross toards east aiming at a distinctive breach at the lowest of the south ridge of the Jakosiri. Reach the foot of this breach (5600m)
South ridge of Jakosiri (4h)
The wall rising up to the breach offers two “cracks”. Climb the one on the left (IV+, sustained) and reach the ridge. Cross a breach on the right of the first pinnacle which is bypassed by a tricky flake,then on the ridge (IV+, 30 m exposed). Then follow easy mixed ground to reach a small secondary summit.
Remark: You can reach this secondary summit directly by ascending a snow slode (60°), which allows to bypass the exposed part, but you miss a very beautiful part of the climb.
Follow the ridge (II and III), some parts can be bypassed lower on the right (not recommended as it is easy and enjoyable climbing). The third pinnacle is bypassed first onits right via nice orange slabs (IV) leading to the ridge (III+) until the foot of the fourth pinnacle.
Find a small breach giving access to the left hand side of the ridge (to find it : follow the easiest ground!). Traverse for a few meters, then climb a short crack with flakes (IV+), traverse again, downclimb 2 m to reach a crack with an unstable flake. Don’t use this flake, but still climb the crack (5 m, 5a). Reach a hole that allows to do down to the other side of the ridge. Traverse and climb some easy ground to reach the ridge again. End of the rock.
Follow the snow ridg to a couloir (65°). Traverse then below the ridge (cornices) to the top of the Jakosiri (5910 m)
Jakosiri Traverse (1h)
Follow the ridge or a bit lower on the right, beware of the cornices! Only the penultimate summit is bypassed on the left, 5 m below. Beautiful views on the altiplano and the south face (where only two routes exists for the moment). From the last summit, go down on the left following a steep snow slope (60°), cross the bergschrund the best you can and rach the col at 5850m at the foot of the south ridge of the Sentinel (The sentinel is the beautiful triangular face facing the normal route of the Chachacomani)
Sentinel south ridge and Chachacimani summit (1h30)
Globally, staying close to the ridge allows to find the most beautiful climbing.
Ascend the snowy ridge up to the first rocks. You can bypass them on the right by snow slopes or follow them jut below rthe ridge. A breach leads tothe other side of the ridge (III). Follow the ridge then for 4/5 m (III) and travaerse on the left a tricky slab (IV, few holds for the feets). Reach a short snow couloir (50/60°) and climb back on the ridge. Traverse on the left on mixed ground to reach another couloir (60°, 5/6 m). From its top, the ridge is easy until you reach the final wall. Climb a short wall with flakes (5a, 1-2m) the reach a breach. This is the end of the difficulties.
Follow then the ridge to the top of the Chachacomani (6074 m)
Descent (2h30) Go down by the normal route : http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/369134/fr/chachacomani-face-nw
Beautiful rock (granite?)! We opened this route at the end of may in 2016 but this was a dry year. It is likely that the route will be usually in good conditions later, when the rocky part is dry. The climbing parts are always short (except the two first pitches) but there are a lot!
If you climb in this part of the Cordillera Real, you should definitely stop qt the village of Peñas and visit the parish. You will be welcomed by the priest Padre Antonio which has a very good knowledge of these mountains, and you can enjoy newly equipped climbing routes (single and multi pitches) in the rocks behind the village.
The group Jakosiri-Chachacomani has a good potential for mountain climbing : there are other unexplored ridges leading to the summit of the Jakosiri, and only two routes in its steep south face! There are also other rocky summits in the area, and if the rock is as good as the one on this route, there is a potential for opening reallw nice climbing routes.
The traverse of the Jakosiri and the south ridge of the Sentinel have already been climbed before we went there. We opened the south ridge of the Jakosiri made the first complete traverse Jakosiri-Chachacomani.
This route has been called “Back in Black” because on the day we opened it, we missed the alarm clock and started at 9 am. Due to this we reached the summit in the night and got lost on the descend because of the black.
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