Vogelberg - Don Bosco Grat
Easy ridge close to Dürnstein.
Coming from Dürnstein, go upriver for about 300m, until the last house, cross the railway (you can leave bikes there), then take the path going up the valley next to a small vineyard (Kanzeltal). Walk uphill for a bit (20min), through the forest, until you reach the first boulders/cliff. Don Bosco is on the right.
The first length is in the middle of a climbing garden and is the most challenging part. You can’t miss it, it is a very impressive chimney. The rest of the route is much easier, and does not really require a rope, apart from one or two moves.
The climbing garden at the start (Bereich Kummerstalturm), has many hard routes, the chimney is one of the easiest.
L#| IV+ |30m| Impressive chimney, relay on the right L#| II |20m| Jump across the top of the chimney, slightly uphill, and then ~80m walk. L#| | | Small boulders that can be avoided by walking around L#| III-IV |20m| Nice slab L#| V- |20m| First move interesting then easy III+ L#| II+ |20m| Uninteresting easy climb, can be avoided by walking to the left L#| III |20m| Climb the boulder and climb down on the slab L#| IV- |30m| A nice crack , then climb on the tree and go down behind it. L#| II |40m| Walk/climb L#| III |40m| Use the hole in the rock and climb up L#| II- |25m| Go between the rocks L#| V- |20m| First two moves are very nice then climb down on the other side III+ or abseil. L#| III+ | | Bonus pitch: climb to the top of the George Harrison Nadel
walk to the high point a bit further on (Vogelberg, 546m), where you meet a path, go W, and back down to Dürnstein via the “Vogelbergsteig”, about 20-30min. This path offers really picturesque views on Dürnstein and the Danube.
Apart from L1, and one or two move on L5 and L12, a rope is not really needed. 30-40m is enough.
Can get very hot as it is mostly facing S.
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