Magnificent, varied route with a complex glacier approach and excellent rock climbing on the ridge. In a wild situation with excellent views of the E Face of the Grand Jorasses.

### Approach
(See approach for Gervasutti Bivouac.)

### Route
4-5h

From the Bivouac Gervasutti, go up rocks for 80m from where you can see a gully with loose boulder and scree. Go down this as best you can to reach the Fébrouzie glacier. Go up this, working your way through the large crevasses to a bergschrund. Overcome this and go up the large snow slope (150m, 45°). Turn to the right to reach a terrace at the foot of the rocks. From here follow the rocky ridge, mainly on its crest; 1 move of 5b, otherwise moves of 4b/c. Where the good rock ends either continue up the snow ridge or go along the rocks, rotten in one section. From a little col, go up easily to the summit.

### Descent
3-4h

By the normal route or by climbing down the ascent route. Possible to make some abseils down the modern routes on the S face.

The bergschrund can cause problems at the end of the season. The rock is excellent on the ridge.

<p>Magnificent, varied route with a complex glacier approach and excellent rock climbing on the ridge. In a wils situation with excellent views of the E Face of the Grand Jorasses.</p> <h2>Approach # (See approach for Gervasutti Bivouac.)</h2> <h2>Route # 4-5h</h2> <p>From the Bivouac Gervasutti, go up rocks for 80m from where you can see a gully with loose boulder and scree. Go down this as best you can to reach the Fébrouzie glacier. Go up this, working your way through the large crevasses to a bergschrund. Overcome this and go up the large snow slope (150m, 45°). Turn to the right to reach a terrace at the foot of the rocks. From here follow the rocky ridge, mainly on its crest; 1 move of 5b, otherwise moves of 4b/c. Where the good rock ends either continue up the snow ridge or go along the rocks, rotten in one section. From a little col, go up easily to the summit.</p> <h2>Descent # 3-4h</h2> <p>By the normal rout or by climbing down the ascent route. Possible to make some abseils down the modern routes on the S face.</p> <p>The bergschrund can cause problems at the end of the season. The rock is excellent on the ridge.</p>

Petites Jorasses

Petites Jorasses - S Ridge

Camptocamp

camptocamp

<h2>Historique</h2> <ul> <li>Première ascension (par le versant ENE)&#160;: 23 septembre 1876 - Auguste Cupelin, Henri Devouassoud, Albert Guyard.</li> </ul> <h2>Bibliographie</h2> <ul> <li><em>Petites Jorasses</em>, <em>The Alpine Journal</em>], vol. VIII, 1877, n<sup>o</sup>58, p.345&#160;: chronique (en anglais) de la 1<sup>re</sup> ascension.</li> <li><em>Les Petites Jorasses - Ascension nouvelle - 23 septembre</em> par Albert Guyard, <em>Annuaire CAF 1876</em>, p.233-240&#160;: récit de la 1<sup>re</sup> ascension.</li> <li><em>Petites Jorasses, première ascension par la face N.-O.</em>, *Alpinisme&#160;: chronique et itinéraire de la 1<sup>re</sup> ascension du versant NW, en 1929.</li> </ul>