Paretone di Arnad - Lo Dzerby
A good route at a reasonable grade, 5c max
Park as for the Gruveria crag next to the Arcaden restaurant. From the parking go in front of the restaurant and the houses and level with a stone arch take the path towards the cliff. The path goes through the woods and climbs up the first buttresses. After about 10 mins, you pass a little stone wall, to reach a sort of terrace. A metal plaque indicates the start of the route.
P1 5a Slab with runnels, then a corner. Belay on the left. P2 3c Easy angled slab with a steep step at the end. P3 5a A rock step then traverse right to a ledge, “vire du nain” P4 5c A difficult move to leave the belay then traverse easily left. P5 5c Another difficult move to start to reach a ledge which you leave by a slab to reach a pleasant and exposed pillar. Variant: If you continue along the ledge you come to another belay on a parallel route which goes up a corner (5b). You rejoin the original route in the middle of the next pitch. P6 3 Linking pitch with one move in the middle to reach the pillar. Belay on one bolt. P7 4a Climb the pillar to reach a well featured rock face. P8 4c Climb the face to a hanging belay. P9 5a The top of the face is steeper, then exit to the right. P10 4c Cross the vegetated section slightly to the left then a mossy gully to reach the upper rock steps. P11 3c Climb these rock steps P12 4a Continue up the rock steps P13 5b Continue until the exit slab.
Descent # 45 min
From the summit of the Paretone go along the top of the cliff to the right to some beautiful stone houses with the “Fort du Machaby” (B&B plus restauarnt.) From here follow the path which descends steeply through the forest, (some fixed ropes and iron steps,) to reach the parking. It is also possible to descend to the N by the access road to Machaby. Does not take much longer and is a lot less exposed.
Very well bolted with chains at the belays. The Mani Nude 2 quidebook description does not match the pitches described above or the new level of bolting.
The text and images in this page are available
under a Creative Commons CC-by-sa licence.