Montserrat - Secteur Agulles - Agulla de l'Arbret - Aitor - Montserrat - Sector Agulles - Catalan ranges - Spain
Montserrat - Secteur Agulles - Agulla de l'Arbret - Aitor

Montserrat - Secteur Agulles - Agulla de l'Arbret - Aitor

Montserrat - Secteur Agulles - Catalan ranges - Spain

Information
Min / max altitude716m / 1078m
Duration1 day
Main facingSW
Route typereturn_same_way
GearCuerda 2×50 para rapelar
Source

Approach

From the refuge Vicenç Barbé, follow an obvious trail to the N (pass left of the small sport climbing sector). Follow this trail uphill (N) until the small valley gets more narrow between two needles. As the path steepens, keep following left (W) until you reach a col. Descent for a couple of meters to reach the base of the route on the right hand side. The start of the route is marked with a metal plate, engraved ‘Aitor’

Route

Continuous climb on good quality conglomerate. Don’t expect much bolts as the climbing is not that hard (usually around 4 bolts every pitch).

L# | | High first bolt but easy climbing. Make sure to spot the next bolt before choosing your line (the line wanders more to the right than indicated in the guidebook). As the pitch steepens, the pebbles get bigger. Belay with 3 bolts and a good chain. L# | | Pass some slight bulges (good pebbles) to reach the next belay. The guidebook indicates 30m, but the pitch is way shorter. L# | | The ‘harder’ pitch according to the guidebook. Slight traverse to the left in the start (locate 2 bolts before you go), then straight up. A bit runout to reach the small terrace. On the easier slab, some parts of the rock are not that solid. (again, felt shorter than indicated in the guidebook). L# | | Short and easy (unprotected) climb to reach the top of the route (not the summit). (Maybe better to link P3 and P4?) Comfortable and good belay, superb view of the agulles sector. L# | | Optional. Unprotected scramble to the real summit. The rock is not 100% solid so take care.

Descent

Two options :

E face

Indicated in the guidebook. First anchor on the right hand side (E) of the top of the route (not the real summit). 1×25 m + 1×30 m. Local climbers warned us about some big loose blocks near the first anchor, so they considered this a dangerous option.

Aresta Brucs

3 rappels (possible with 80m single rope) : R# | From the fake summit to an intermediate anchor (not indicated in the guidebook, though equipped to install a rappel) below the first good terrace (skip the one on the terrace). R# | From the intermediate anchor to the first anchor of Aresta Brucs. R# | From the first anchor of Aresta Brucs to the ground.

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