<p>A route that links three separate cliffs, not as dramatic as Paretone, but a lot quieter.</p> <h2>Approach: # 30mins</h2> <p>If coming from Turin/Milan exit the autoroute at Pont-St-Martin, 40km before Aosta. Take direction Albard di Bard.<br /> If coming from Aosta/Courmayeur exit at Verres Follow the national road past the crags of Machaby and through where the valley narrows at the Bard Fortress. Just as the valley opens out again you enter a village (Donnas) and just as you enter the village and opposite the first building on the right, there is a turn to the left, with a post with a set of blue signs 20m up the turning. The bottom of these signs is for Albard.<br /> Follow the road and signposts, initially through vineyards, to its end (small tarmac carpark), some 3.5 kms up the hill, (though it seems much further). Follow the track on the right, leaving almost immediately for a path on the left (this is the descent path from the Dr Jimmy sector, red marks.) The path soon crosses a little bridge with iron railings and becomes single track. After about 10 minutes you arrive at a boulder with the words &#8220;Mono Tiri&#8221; painted on one side and &#8220;Settore Lawrence” on the side visible to those descending. This is a one pitch climbing area that can be seen over on the right. Continue upwards to a viewpoint at a flat slab with the words “Settori Nuovi” painted on it. Turn right here following the indications for this area. You pass a ruined building with an ancient cable lift. Shortly after this keep right and upwards, (ignoring the little, descending path on the left,) to reach the base of a cliff. Continue rightwards, (avoid going too high,) until the path crosses some slabs with a fixed rope. Two routes start at the two bolts at the end of the fixed rope, (names painted on the rock.) ”Pà Raumer E I Suoi Pargoli” is the right hand line of bolts. (&#8220;Marimba&#8221; is the left hand one.)</p> <h2>Route</h2> <p><strong>P1 4b</strong> 35m 8 bolts Go up to the bolt belay, a little bulge at just over half way. <strong>P2 3b</strong> 45m 2 bolts (more pleasing to take the variant.)</p> <p><strong>Variant 1&#160;:</strong> <em>Better climbing is to be had by climbing the second pitch of &#8220;Marimba&#8221; 4c 40m 5 bolts. To get to this traverse easily leftwards for 15m to another bolt belay by a small dead tree, no bolts. From the belay, follow the line of bolts to the tree ledge.</em></p> <p><strong>P3 2</strong> 60m (100m for the variant) 0 bolts Walk rightwards until it is possible to descend a little chimney between rock and a tree and continue down and rightwards to the start of the next pitch at a large crack, behind a larger tree. <strong>P4 5a</strong> 30m 5 bolts Use the tree to overcome the initial part of the crack, then follow the flake crack to a bolt belay <strong>P5 5a</strong> 40m 6 bolts Continue up the flake crack and easier slabs to a large ledge. Belay on a tree. (This is not the ledge from where Captain Walker etc. start as indicated in the topo.) <strong>P5 bis 2</strong> 20m 0 bolts Go up through the trees and slightly left and then back, up a little corner to where it steepens. Belay on a single bolt. <strong>P6 4b</strong> 45m 2 bolts Climb the corner and then more easily up to a very large ledge with lots of trees and a path along the bottom of the next part of the cliff. (Level with the start of &#8220;Captain Walker&#8221; <strong>P7 4b</strong> 45/50m 5 bolts Climb up the slabs to a bolt belay. There is another bolt belay slightly higher up. Only from this one can you reach the final belay with a 50m rope. <strong>P8 4c</strong> 50m 10 bolts Climb up easily, then trend diaganolly rightwards to finish up a fine pillar.</p> <p><strong>Variant 2&#160;:</strong> <em>A more sustained finish can be had by doing &#8220;Captain Walker&#8221; instead of pitches 7 and 8. To get to this, walk 20/25m to the right of the start of pitch 7. The name of the route is painted on the rock. Three pitches of 5a. Follow the bolts, the second pitch trends to the right to a bolt belay in an open corner.</em></p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>Abseil down the line of the Pa Raumer, two abseils, (the first diagonally rightwards looking down, 50m rope just reaches.) to regain the large ledge. It is also possible to regain this ledge by abseilling down Captain Walker, but be careful not to get the rope snagged on the second abseil.<br /> From here it is possible to either: walk/scramble down. The path improves as do the indications, (cairns, red paint marks,) and finally brings you to the foot of the first pitch, or: continue abseilling down the route to the start of pitch 4, from where it is possible to join the descent path.</p> <p>The Topo &#8220;Manu Nude 2&#8221; is wrong for this route. P6 is below the big ledge where &#8220;Captain Walker&#8221; starts. A 50m rope is only just long enough. Slabs facing SE, to be avoided on hot days. Possible to miss out the first 3 pitches by walking directly to the start of pitch 4. The paths are often buried under leaves and so dificult to follow.</p>

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Valais E - Pennine Alps E - Italy

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Pa' Raumer

Camptocamp

camptocamp

<p><em>La voie est jolie, bon rocher, mais manque un peu de continuité.</em></p> <h2>Approche</h2> <p>L&#8217;approche est très courte: 1/4h</p> <h2>La Voie</h2> <p>Équipement rapproché, bien pour se mettre en confiance en début de saison.</p> <h2>Descente</h2> <p>A pied par le sentier, bien balisé.</p>

Tout est dit!

Olympic Spirit

<p>Pleasant route in the Dr Jimmy sector</p> <p><strong>Approach</strong> 20mins From the carpark at the end of the Albard di Bard road, follow the 1A path between two low stone walls being careful to turn right at the yellow markings. Go down the rocky ridge and into the woods to just after the path crosses a stream. Turn right up towards the cliffs (cairn and Gatto Nando painted on a rock). Ignore the first line of bolts but continue up and to the left to the start of Gatto Nando, (name written and picture of cat.) <strong>Route</strong> P1 4b 25m P2 5a 30m Challenging for the grade P3. 4b 25m Ignore the bolts up an to the left, but go right onto a nice slab P4 4b 30m Ends at a tree belay. From here walk up to the rocks on the left. P5 4b 25m Take the left hand line of bolts, (Right hand line is Table de Roc) P6 5a 30m Another challenging pitch for the grade. P7 4b 25m Single bolt belay on a flat rock dome. It is possible to walk off from here. P8 4b 25m To reach the start of this pitch, follow a vague path on the left to the foot of a slab with bolts.</p> <p><strong>Descent</strong> Either from the top of P7 or P8, follow vague paths to the right, (looking upwards,) until you join the main 1B path with leads back down to the carpark</p> <p>The short pitches together with an easy access and return make this a non stressful outing</p>

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Gatto Nando

<h2>Acceso # 30min</h2> <p>Desde el Parking seguir el camino de senderismo 1B marcado palestria di Roccia. después de llegar a un bloque grande marcado (sector lawrence) seguir el sendero indicado nuevo sector. llegas así al sector con la vía &#8220;Gary and Erik&#8221;, seguir todavia 5 minutos el sendero hasta llegar a la base del pilar, donde estan las vías Lato SX, Marinca, Pilier Forte, PA Raumer. Ver la huella GPX para los detalles.</p> <h2>Escalada</h2> <p>L# | 5c | | L# | 5c | | L# | 5b | | L# | 3 | |</p> <h2>Descenso</h2> <p>3 rápeles de 35m. en Marinca (basta con cuerda de 70m).</p> <p>Bonita vía con roca abrasiva</p>

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Lato SX

<h2>Approach # 30mins</h2> <p>If coming from Turin/Milan exit the autoroute at Pont-St-Martin, 40km before Aosta. Take direction Albard di Bard.<br /> If coming from Aosta/Courmayeur exit at Verres Follow the national road past the crags of Machaby and through where the valley narrows at the Bard Fortress. Just as the valley opens out again you enter a village (Donnas) and just as you enter the village and opposite the first building on the right, there is a turn to the left, with a post with a set of blue signs 20m up the turning. The bottom of these signs is for Albard.<br /> Follow the road and signposts, initially through vineyards, to its end (small tarmac carpark), some 3.5 kms up the hill, (though it seems much further). Follow the track on the right, leaving almost immediately for a path. 1B on the left (this is also the descent path from the Dr Jimmy sector, red marks.) The path soon crosses a little bridge with iron railings and becomes single track. After about 10 minutes you arrive at a flat area of bare rock. 1B goes straight on, turn right here, sign &#8220;Settore Alti&#8221; painted on the rock. Continue to a boulder with the words &#8220;Mono Tiri&#8221; painted on one side, (barely visible) and &#8220;Settore Lawrence” on the side visible to those descending. The path on the right leads to Lawrence, a one pitch climbing area that can be seen over on the right. You pass a ruined building with an ancient cable lift. Shortly after this keep right and upwards, (ignoring the little, descending path on the left,) to reach the base of a cliff. Continue rightwards, (avoid going too high,) until the path crosses some slabs with a fixed rope and a three way yellow arrow. Scramble up easily for 5m to a ledge. Four routes start from this ledge. Down and on the left is &#8220;Lato SX&#8221;, (name visible on the rock in white). Next is &#8220;Pilier del Forte&#8221;. The next two, starting at the same bolt, are &#8221; Marimba&#8221;and lastly ”Pà Raumer E I Suoi Pargoli” is the right hand most line.</p> <h2>Route</h2> <p><strong>P1</strong> 4c 20m Shares a stance with Lato SX to the left <strong>P2</strong> 5a 20m Can be easily combined with the first pitch <strong>P3</strong> 5a 25m The two bolt belay of Lato SX is a couple of metres to the left <strong>P4</strong> 4b 25m Belay at the birch tree, old purple sling maybe in situ. <strong>P5</strong> 4a 25m</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>Abseil down the neighbouring route, &#8220;Marimba&#8221; (on the right looking upwards), A short 20m abseil to a double bolt chain belay then two 45m abseils to reach the starting ledge. Can be split into five 25m abseils. Alternatively, take a faint path on the right, which leads back to the start.</p> <p>See topo: http://herve-thivierge.pagesperso-orange.fr/topo_pilier-del-forte.jpg The grades in the Valle d&#8217;Aosta guidebook are 4b,4b.4a,4a,3c and are not correct.</p>

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Pilier del Forte

<p>Da Donnaz, Ao, seguire le indicazioni per Albard, lasciare l&#8217;auto nel comodo parcheggio posto al termine della strada asfaltata e proseguire a piedi per la sterrata. Dopo pochi metri, all&#8217;inizio del bosco, svoltare a sinistra e seguire il sentiero che in breve raggiunge un ponte in ferro, giunti ad un primo bivio, indicazioni con scritte in rosso per settore monotiri - lawrence, proseguire a sinistra ad un secondo bivio, scritta in vernice rossa indicazione per settore nuovo, seguire ancora il sentiero sulla sinistra che in leggera discesa porta ad una scala in pietra. Proseguire in discesa per tracce di sentiero, uscita della via Spirito Olimpico, fiancheggiando la placconata che scende sulla destra sino a raggiungere la sua base e quindi la partenza della via. Sono ben visibili gli spit. 30 min.</p> <h2>Relazione# con gradi UIAA</h2> <p>L# | 2° | 25m | Facile placca, sosta su albero con cordone. L# | 3° | 25m | Placca, sosta su Fix in prossimità della corda fissa del sentiero di discesa della via Dottor Jimmi. L# | 3°+ | 25m | Placca, sosta su 2 Fix. L# | 3°+,4° | 25m | Placca, sosta su 1 Fix, opppure su albero, cordone giallo. L# | 4°+ | 25m | Placca, sosta su 2 Fix. L# | 3°+ | 30m | Placca, sosta su 1 Fix. L# | 2°,3° | 30m | Placca, sosta su 2 Fix. L# | 3°+ | 30m | Placca, sosta su 2 Fix. L# | 3° | 15m | Placca, sosta su 1 Fix.</p> <h2>Discesa</h2> <p>Entrare nel bosco, alcuni ometti, e andare verso destra fiancgheggiando un grosso masso sino a raggiungere un&#8217;intreccio di alberi di castagno che sbarrano l&#8217;ingresso di un canyon. Aggirarli sulla destra, scendere nel canyon e entrare quindi in un buco all&#8217;uscita del quale sulla sinistra bisogna praticare una prima doppia, 10&#160;m cordone con spit. Proseguire ancora a sinistra, raggiungere la sosta della via Gary end Erik e praticare una seconda doppia, 30&#160;m. Per tracce di sentiero raggiungere il secondo bivio con le scritte. 40 min.</p>

Raggio di Sole

<h2>Acceso</h2> <p>Salida &#8220;Pont Saint Martin&#8221; de la autopista A5. Seguir el cártel &#8220;Donnas&#8221;. Justo antes del final del pueblo, una carretera anotada &#8220;Albard de Bard&#8221; sube en la vid. seguir la carretera hasta el final siguiendo los carteles &#8220;Albard&#8221;.</p> <h2>Acceso # 15min</h2> <p>coger le camino que sale a la izquierda. después de 200m coger un camino que baja entre pequeñas paredes de piedra. atravesar un riachuelo y bordear la pared hasta le punto bajo de las rocas. luego seguir las rocas remontando una especie de senda, sobre 50m, donde esta un spit en una placa poco inclinada, escondida bajo ramas (nombre anotado de azul, un poco borrado).</p> <h2>Itinerario</h2> <p>L#1 | 4b | 35m | 3pts | 3 spits al inicio, luego travesía en ascendencia por los brezos. L#2 | 4c | 45m | 7pts | Placa lisa poco inclinada, luego salida en el filo del espolón. cuidado a una laja inestable al inicio de lo vertical. L#3 | 4a | 45m | 4pts | En el filo del espolón, un poco vegetativo. R3 con árbol. L#4 | 5b | 40m | 9pts | Bonita placa negra, luego en travesía a la izquierda. L#5 | 5a | 40m | 7pts | Bonita fisura al inicio luego serie de resaltes. Un spit más, bajo la reunión no estaría de lujo. L#6 | 5a | 45m | 8pts | Bonito largo, travesía a la izquierda muy bien equipado, quiza difícil si mojado! Reunión con árbol. L#7 | 5b | 48m | 9pts | Bonito y homogéneo! no difícil si encuentres los agarres buenos. Travesía a la derecha al inicio, luego recto para arriba. Reuníon con árbol. L#8 | 3 | 35m | 1pt | Seguir la pequeña flecha azúl recto encima de la reunión&#8230; subir luego por una cornisa hacia la izquierda. Reunión con árbol al final de la cornisa. L#8&#8217; | 6a | 20m | 5pts | No difícil, de brazos sobre 3m, luego placa fina. L#9 | 5b | 40m | 5pts | Dülfer un poco difícil (pies que fugan) pero bien protegido, luego canal un poco herbosa. L#10 | 6a+ | 35m | 8pts | Muy bonita placa surcada, escalada fina. el paso de 6a+ esta bien protegido. este largo se puede evitar saliendo por la derecha (única reunión equipada para rapelar).</p> <h2>Descenso # 10min</h2> <p>en la salida de la vía, atravesar a la derecha (E) bajando para llegar a L10 de &#8220;Dr. Jimmy&#8221;. marcas rojas indican el camino de bajada.</p> <p>Ver version francesa</p>

Pas facile à trouver ce départ!

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Via le dita dal naso

<p>An excellent route on good rock.</p> <h2>Approach</h2> <p>Exit the autoroute at Pt-St-Martin 40km after Aosta. Take direction Albard di Bard. Attention, in Bard village you need to take a little road on the left after a bridge (easily missed) which winds upwards through vineyards Follow this road to it’s end and a small parking area above the hamlet Albard di Bard. From the parking, follow the path on the left (marked “Dr Jimmy”), across a field with some low walls, along a little rocky ridge, then downwards before going up to the cliff and the beginning of the route. The name is painted on the rock and is to the left of &#8220;Olimpic Spirit&#8221; and &#8220;Tirannosauro Rex&#8221;.</p> <h2>Route</h2> <p>L#1 | 5a | L#2 | 4a | Go left part way up. Straight on is &#8220;Luna&#8221;, 6a L#3 | 5b | L#4 | 5a | L#5 | 5b | L#6 | 5b | L#7 | 3 | L#8 | 5a | L#9 | 5b | Possible to walk off at the top of this pitch. L#10 | 6a | L#11 | 5a |</p> <p>The last two pitches are optional.</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>• Abseil back down pitches 10 and 11, if done. • From the top of pitch 9, follow the footpath back to the parking.</p> <p>The route is easy for the grade except for pitch 10, 6a which is challenging but easy to aid.</p>

Agnès dans L5 de Dr Jimmy (Albard de Bard)

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Dr Jimmy

<h2>Accès</h2> <p>Sortie autoroute Pt St Martin 40&#160;km après Aoste, Donnas, puis direction Albard di bard. Passer le hameau de Chanail, le parking se situe environ 400&#160;m après le hameau ( départ des sentiers N<sup>os</sup> 6 et 7).</p> <h2>Approche # 45 minutes</h2> <p>Descendre par le sentier N<sup>o</sup>6 (corde fixe bleue)&#160;; au bas de ce sentier, prendre à gauche le sentier N<sup>o</sup>7, le poursuivre jusqu&#8217;à une maison de pierre, continuer jusqu&#8217;à un bloc carré, prendre à droite (passage peu marqué) et rejoindre une petite sente qui longe la falaise et mène à Antica.</p> <h2>Escalade</h2> <p>L#1 | 5c | | | L#2 | 4b | | | L#3 | 5c | | | L#4 | 5c | | | (traversée) L#5 | 5c | | | L#6 | 5c | | | L#7 | 4b | | |</p> <h2>Retour # 15 minutes</h2> <p>Du haut de la falaise, rejoindre une bonne sente sur la droite, balisée en jaune.</p> <ul> <li>À gauche de Antica, il y a une nouvelle voie et à droite, il y a la voie Rolling Stone.</li> <li>Les relais sont reliés, mais les anneaux de corde sont vieillissants.</li> <li>Les longueurs sont courtes&#160;: entre 25 et 30&#160;m.</li> </ul>

1621698320.4601

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Antica

<h2>Descrizione itinerario</h2> <p>L# | 4c | | L# | 4c | | Primi passi un po&#8217; scivolosi, ma facili. Tiro un po&#8217; esposto L# | 6a | | Un po&#8217; duretto soprattutto a metà e con spittatura sportiva L# | 3 | | L# | 6a | | (Forse ben più facile che 6a, ma molto bello) L# | 3 | | L# | 3 | | L# | 4a | | Attenzione all&#8217;ultimo muretto L# | 6a+ | | Tiro molto bello</p>

Monte Coudrey - Albard - T.Rex

<h2>Acceso</h2> <p>Salida autopista Pt-St-Martin 40km después de Aoste luego direccíon Albard di bard.</p> <p><strong>cuidado</strong>, en el pueblo de Bard coger una pequeña carretera que sube a la izquierda después de un puente y que serpentea en la vid. no fácil de encontrar!</p> <p>Seguir esta carretera hasta el final, pequeño parking encima del pueblecito de Albard di bard.</p> <p>caundo estamos en el parking, coger un sendero (marcado Dr Jimmy) a la izquierda que baja al pie de las vías (nombre anotado al inicio). I love you Sylvie a la izquierda de Dr Jimmy.</p> <h2>Itinerario</h2> <p>L# | 3+ | |<br /> L# | 3+ | | L# | 5b | | L# | 5c | | Fisura dülfer L# | 5 a/b | | L# | 4a | | L# | 4a | | L# | 5a | | L# | 5c | | L# | 3 | | L# | 4a | | L# | 5a | | L# | 2 | | Escape posible L# | 6a | | (A0) L# | 3 | |</p>

Monte Coudrey - Albard - I love you Sylvie

<h2>Acceso</h2> <p>igual que &#8220;Doctor Jimmy&#8221;</p> <h2>La vía</h2> <p>L# | 5a | | L1: 5a L# | 4a| | L2: 4a luego seguir todo recto para &#8220;Luna&#8221; mientras que &#8220;Doctor Jimmy&#8221; sale a la izquierda L# | 5c+ | | L# |5c+ | | L# | 5c+ | | otro largo igual L# | C | | L# | 2b | | últimos largos iguales que para las 3 vías L# | 5a+| | L# | 5b+ | | L# |2b | | L# | 6a | | (5c 2 pasos) L# | 5a+ | |</p> <h2>Descenso</h2> <p>1 rápel de 22m luego caminando</p>

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Luna

Italy

<p>Settore di arrampicata con vie lunghe attrezzate</p>

Monte Coudrey - Albard

<ul> <li><p>Partie Est du Valais.</p></li> <li><p>Liste des sommets</p></li> <li><p>Liste des refuges</p></li> <li><p>Liste des accès</p></li> </ul>

Monte Coudrey - Albard

Routes

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Valais E - Pennine Alps E - Italy

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Valais E - Pennine Alps E - Italy

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Valais E - Pennine Alps E - Italy

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Valais E - Pennine Alps E - Italy

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Valais E - Pennine Alps E - Italy

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Valais E - Pennine Alps E - Italy

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Valais E - Pennine Alps E - Italy

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Valais E - Pennine Alps E - Italy

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Valais E - Pennine Alps E - Italy

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Valais E - Pennine Alps E - Italy

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Valais E - Pennine Alps E - Italy

Monte Coudrey - Albard - Valais E - Pennine Alps E - Italy