<h2>Approche</h2> <p>Comme pour la face N (via le col Tonini) puis longer la base de toute la face N et à l&#8217;approche de l&#8217;arête N tirer en diagonale pour la rejoindre.</p> <h2>Montée par l&#8217;arête N puis E</h2> <p>Ensuite et selon les conditions d&#8217;enneigement gravir tantôt l&#8217;arête N elle-même, tantôt des pentes de neige raides sur sa droite (mixte). Rocher médiocre globalement et mauvais en quittant l&#8217;arête. Puis poursuivre jusqu&#8217;au sommet par une belle arête E neigeuse parfois assez fine (un pas en rocher).</p> <h2>Descente par l&#8217;arête W</h2> <p>Du sommet, revenir sur ses pas jusqu&#8217;au départ de l&#8217;arête W neigeuse. Assez facile au début, rencontrer plus loin un passage aérien et assez fin puis éviter des gendarmes par des pentes raides à gauche (versant S) jusqu&#8217;à rejoindre le col de la Ciamarella avant une tour de rocher. Désescalader la pente de neige (45°/50°) à main droite vers le col de Tonini. Le ressaut raide du bas se passe soit en rappel(30&#160;m) soit en désescaladant une goulotte sur la droite des rochers (regard vers le bas)quand les conditions le permettent. Retour aisé via le col de Tonini (où on aura laissé éventuellement sa paire de skis)et le glacier des Évettes.</p>

Grande Ciamarella - Graian Alps - Charbonnel - Italy

tracés

Grande Ciamarella - traversée  N-E-W

Camptocamp

camptocamp

<p>Ascent: The normal route of Grande Ciamarella is a splendid objective, in the middle of exceptional cirques and glacial walls. Combined with the traverse on Petite Ciamarella it is possible to discover mixed terrain ridge.</p> <p>Day 1: Climb to the Évettes refuge: After the Ecot parking lot (2020m) take the well marked way which goes up the S slope via large bends. After going up these large avalanche slopes a large traverse to the left leads you to a small herbish flat spot. The way is divided into 2, a path traverses and easily climbs to the refuge while the second directly climbs the slope above, reaching a broad dale and to the refuge via a traverse to the E. From Ecot to the refuge takes 1h15 to 2h00.</p> <p>Day 2: Go back down the flat spot under the Refuge and head for the Évettes glacier. Once on the glacier go up the first slope often in ice (25°) then traverse diagonally to the left (towards the right bank of the glacier) to avoid a slightly threatening serac area. Via snow slopes at 30° it is easy to reach the higher dish of the glacier. Head SE for the glacier which climbs to the Tonini pass just to the left of the summit of Petite Ciamarella. Go up the slope which recovers gradually until approximately 45° under the Tonini pass. Go past the pass and traverse completely E until the foot of Ciamarella pass. From the refuge to the start takes 1h30 to 2h00.</p> <p>Normal Grande Ciamarella route: A snow gully in line with the Ciamarella pass makes it possible to reach the ridge. After a not very steep snowy slope cross a very short mixed or rocky section (II). You then hit a snow gully at approximately 45° which emerges at the Ciamarella pass. From the pass follow the mixed ridge, which is tapered at the start, then quickly slightly broader. It then becomes snowy and very broad. Via this clear glacial course you reach the summit of Grande Ciamarella. From the bergschrund to the summit takes 1h30 to 2h00.</p> <p>Large traverse -Petite Ciamarella: Go back down the snowy ridge via its edge as long as it is broad. A small rocky corridor leaves on the left on the Italian side, go down it 20m until a clear terrace obvious. Follow this terrace in the direction of Petite Ciamarella, when it disappears go up towards the ridge via easy corridors and chimneys (UK-3a /US-5.3). Follow the ridge while remaining mainly on the Italian side as far as the summit of a steep rocky pitch above a notch. Below the ridge, Italian side, rappel (15m) on an overlay to reach this notch. Go up of the other side of the notch via cracks on the French side and the edge of the ridge (UK-4a /US-5.5) on 2 pitches. The ridge then becomes almost horizontal and less difficult. Follow it as far as the summit of Petite Ciamarella. From Grande to Petite Ciamarella takes 2h00 to 3h00.</p> <p>Bibliography: - Alpinisme Vanoise Haute Maurienne by P.Col for the normal route.</p> <p>Descent: From the summit of Petite Ciamarella there are 3 possibilities:</p> <ul> <li>Return by the uphill route of Petite Ciamarella. Good technical and skiing conditions are necessary.</li> </ul> <p>-From the summit traverse by a mixed ridge to the E until the pass of Petite Ciamarella (3435m). Descend the pass towards the Cirque des Évettes via a snow slope at 30/35° diagonally towards the left, in the direction of the Muraille d&#8217;Italie. Once you arrive on the small glacial basin (3050m, very crevassed terrain at the end of the season), fork towards the N and via a snow slope at 25/30° you reach the plateau under the Petite Ciamarella and to follow the uphill route to the Évettes refuge. From the summit to the refuge takes 2h30 to 3h00.</p> <p>-Continue the traverse on the Pointe de Chalançon, Muraille d&#8217;Italie, Selle d&#8217;Albaron and summit of Albaron. Splendid traverse along a clear route (long snowy or mixed ridges without particular difficulties). The descent takes place via the normal route of Albaron. Petite Ciamarella - Pointe de Chalançon, takes 0h45. Pointe de Chalançon - Muraille d&#8217;Italie, takes 1h00. Muraille d&#8217;Italie - Selle d&#8217;Albaron, takes 0h40. Selle - summit of Albaron, takes 0h20. Summit of Albaron - Évettes refuge, takes 3h00.</p> <p>This wall, as all of the Cirque des Évettes is liable to the abrupt changes in weather because of its situation on the border with Italy, the cloud movement is fast and sometimes not very predictable.</p> <p>The basic route of this topo is the normal Grande Ciamarella (PD +) route, gradually by adding elements to the traverse you can extend it to Albaron, it is also possible to vary the length and the difficulty of the tour. It is also possible to carry out traverse in the other direction but it is not as interesting because numerous rappels must be made.</p> <p>This traverse follows the ridge only on half of its pitch. The difficulties all contained in a few lengths of rope around the notch. The rock has to be inspected in certain areas (traversing terraces in particular). Great view all along the route, first the Italian side, then the French.</p> <p>Access: Go up the valley of Maurienne via Modane and Bessans and continue until Bonneval sur Arc. In Bonneval at the entry of the village, in front of the tourist bureau take the road which descends on the right and cross a bridge on the Arc. An asphalt road leads to the village of Ecot.</p> <p>Accommodation: Leave the refuge very early if you want to make the whole traverse as far as the summit of Albaron because its descent takes the sun quickly and the terrain is very crevassed.</p>

Col de la Ciamarella - Graian Alps - Charbonnel - Italy

Grande Ciamarella - Grande Ciamarella normal French route - Grande Petite Ciamarella traverse

<h2>Salita</h2> <p>Da Pian della Mussa, salire il Canale delle Capre in sci o a piedi, fino a 2522&#160;m, in 1.45 h. Continuare per Pian del Gias fino a S di quota 2907. Salire verso N a questa quota e continuare verso N fino al ghiacciaio. Girare ad E verso la vetta, fino alla base del pendio WSW. Salire in ramponi la ripida cresta SW, passare al meglio tra delle roccette, traversare un ripido ed esposto canale, ed arrivare in cima su pendii piu&#8217; facili.</p> <h2>Discesa</h2> <h3>Diretta (OSA)</h3> <p>scendere 30 metri fino ad una selletta; girare a destra; scendere con precauzione il pendio SW, grande, ripido (35-40 gradi), esposto, con salti di roccia in basso; raggiungere la cresta SW di salita.</p> <h3>Per la cresta NW (BSA)</h3> <p>scendere l&#8217;ampia cresta NW verso il Colle della Ciamarella; quando diventa ripida, girare a sinistra, e traversare la parte media del pendio della discesa diretta, fino a raggiungere la cresta SW.</p>

Reflet matinal sur la Bessanèse

Uia di Ciamarella - Da Pian della Mussa

<h2>Ascent</h2> <p>Superb glacial wall with a regular slope at 45° then long sections at 50/55°. Ideal route for becoming familiar with the large faces and the large glacial corridors. Unlike the Couloir des Italiens at Grande Casse, this face is not exposed to serac falls.</p> <p>Day 1: Climb to the Évettes refuge: After the Ecot parking lot (2020m) take the well marked way which goes up the south slope via large bends. After going up these large avalanche slopes a large traverse to the left leads you to a small herbish flat spot. The way is divided into 2, a path traverses and easily climbs to the refuge while the second directly climbs the slope above, reaching a broad dale and to the refuge via a traverse to the east. From Ecot to the refuge takes 1h15 to 2h00.</p> <p>Day 2: Go back down the flat spot under the Refuge and head for the Évettes glacier. Once on the glacier go up the first slope often in ice (25°) then traverse diagonally to the left (towards the right bank of the glacier) to avoid a slightly threatening serac area. Via snow slopes at 30° it is easy to reach the higher dish of the glacier. Head south-east for the glacier which climbs to the Tonini pass just to the left of the summit of Petite Ciamarella. Go up the slope which recovers gradually until approximately 45° under the Tonini pass. Go past the pass and traverse east until the foot of the north face of Grande Ciamarella. From the refuge to the start takes 1h30 to 2h00.</p> <p>The snow and ice slope can be climbed via three routes of varying difficulty: -Pass the bergschrund under the first rocky patch located exactly above the bergschrund, go around it on the left and go up the regular slope at 45° to the right above. The slope becomes steeper under the top reaching 50°. Once on the ridge continue easily as far as the summit then to the cross. -Pass the bergschrund further to the left, just to the right of the rocky edge which bars the face vertically. The slope is initially 45° it quickly becomes 50° then 55° at approximately 150&#160;m. Under the ridge go to the left to easily reach the summit. -The last solution is to cross the bergschrund on the left of the rocky edge described above and to go back up the steep corridor (50°) until arriving under the summit serac. Cross the serac via 2 vert steep short pitches at 65° to 75° before reaching the summit. This route should only to be undertaken if the ice conditions are good and if the serac is not threatening. From the bergschrund to the summit takes 1h30 to 3h30.</p> <p>Bibliography: - Les 100 plus belles Vanoise by C.Maly. - Alpinisme Vanoise Haute Maurienne by P.Col.</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>From the summit go down the ice cap and get a foothold on the snowy ridge which goes to the west. This ridge becomes progressively narrower until it reaches the pass of Ciamarella. Do not hesitate to go over to the Italian side (left-hand side of the ridge). From the pass, a steep snowy or mixed corridor (40/45°) makes it possible to descend the north face. This descent may be difficult, spikes can be used to lay a rappel if need be. A bergschrund may form at the base of this corridor, it is avoided via the left bank. Once on the Tonini glacier, you reach the Tonini pass and refuge via the uphill route. From the summit to the refuge takes 2h30 to 3h00.</p> <p>This wall is liable to the abrupt changes in weather due to the fact that it is on the border with Italy.</p> <p>It is possible to choose the difficulty of the climb based to the route used. The face is 500m high, staying concentrated and maintaining the distance are the two main difficulties of this route.</p> <p>The face is broad and the view free from all obstacles, take advantage of the landscape.</p> <p>This wall is a popular choice for steep skiing, but optimum conditions are advised (first ascent by Y.Anselmet in the 1970s).</p> <p>Access: Go up the valley of Maurienne via Modane and Bessans and continue until Bonneval sur Arc. In Bonneval at the entry of the village, in front of the tourist bureau take the road which descends on the right and cross a bridge on the Arc. An asphalt road leads to the village of Ecot.</p>

Grande Ciamarella

Grande Ciamarella - North Face

<p>Du bivouac San Camillo, franchir au N le colerin d&#8217;Arnes, descendre dans le vallon au N jusqu&#8217;au pied du refuge Gastaldi, y monter et poursuivre jusqu&#8217;à une selle au N, où arrive un monte-charge.</p> <p>Descendre sous ce monte-charge, puis traverser au N pour rejoindre le vallon de Pian Gias.</p> <p>Remonter ce vallon, puis bifurquer au N en direction de la Grande Ciamarella. Rejoindre le pied de sa face SW, monter le plus haut possible à ski (sans problème jusque vers 3450&#160;m).</p> <p>Continuer jusqu&#8217;au sommet, à pied ou à ski selon les conditions.</p> <p>Descendre par le même itinéraire jusqu&#8217;au pied de la face.</p> <p>Par une traversée légèrement descendante, gagner le pied de la Muraille d&#8217;Italie, vers 3050&#160;m. Remettre les peaux et monter par une belle combe S en direction de la Selle de l&#8217;Albaron, que l&#8217;on rejoint par l&#8217;itinéraire classique des Évettes.</p> <p>De la Selle, suivre l&#8217;arête mi-neigeuse, mi-rocheuse, jusqu&#8217;au sommet.</p> <p>Descendre sur le glacier supérieur du Vallonnet par un rappel d&#8217;une dizaine de mètres, ou en utilisant les cordes fixes en place, pas toujours en bon état.</p> <p>Rejoindre le col du Grand Fond puis descendre au NW le glacier supérieur du Vallonnet. La sortie est délicate, dans un étroit couloir, déversoir de grandes avalanches.</p> <p>On arrive ainsi sur de grandes étendues à 2250&#160;m (Le Vallonnet). Les traverser pour rejoindre les pistes de Bonneval, qui mènent à Bonneval.</p>

Selle de l'Albaron - Graian Alps - Charbonnel - France

Grande Ciamarella - Face SW, en traversée du bivouac San Camillo à Bonneval, par l'Albaron

<p>Cet itinéraire permet de gravir la Grande Ciamarella par son versant SW depuis le refuge d&#8217;Avérole.</p> <h2>Traversée du Passage du Colerin</h2> <p>Du refuge d&#8217;Avérole, remonter au mieux le vallon à l&#8217;W de la Bessanèse (direction NE au début puis N à partir de 3000&#160;m). Atteindre le Passage du Colerin au pied de la face S de la Pointe du Colerin. Descendre le petit couloir E du passage du Colerin (40°/200&#160;m peu exposé). Au pied du couloir, traverser à gauche en perdant le moins d&#8217;altitude pour se diriger au pied de l&#8217;arête S de la Pointe de Chalanson.</p> <h2>Grande Ciamarella - Versant SW</h2> <p>Remettre les peaux, remonter au mieux direction NE un chaos de blocs qui donne accès au grand plateau glaciaire au SW de la Grande Ciamarella. Se diriger au pied de la grande pente à droite de la face SW. Remonter cette pente puis dès que possible traverser à gauche toute la face presque jusqu&#8217;à l&#8217;arête NW. Remonter ensuite jusqu&#8217;au sommet (40° très expo au-dessus de barres). Descente idem jusqu&#8217;au plateau glaciaire.</p> <h2>Retour par le Col de la Petite Ciamarella et la Selle de l&#8217;Albaron</h2> <p>Au plateau, remonter au Col de la Petite Ciamarella, puis basculer NW sur le Glacier des Évettes et remonter en contournant les séracs à la Selle d&#8217;Albaron. De la Selle, redescendre le vallon SW du Colerin en tirant à gauche vers 2800&#160;m si on veut rejoindre le refuge.</p> <ul> <li><p>La face n&#8217;est pas très raide (40° max) mais très exposée</p></li> <li><p>La face est SW mais il faut quand même ne pas y être trop tard (11h30 grand max en avril) pour assurer un retour dans des conditions de neige potables.</p></li> </ul>

Passage du Colerin - Graian Alps - Charbonnel - France

Face SW de la Grande Ciamarella

Grande Ciamarella - Face SW, par la traversée du passage du Colerin

Italy

<h2>Historique</h2> <ul> <li>1<sup>re</sup> ascension&#160;: 31 juillet 1857&#160;: Antonio Tonini, ingénieur du cadastre, et son assistant topographe Ambrosini.</li> <li>2<sup>e</sup> ascension&#160;: 17 août 1867 - Giovanni Battista Abbà, Domenico Aimo, Antonio Castagneri, Paolo Ballada di Saint Robert et un chien.</li> <li>1<sup>re</sup> ascension (presque) hivernale&#160;: 23 mars 1875 - Antonio Castagneri, Alessandro Emilio Martelli.</li> </ul> <h2>Webographie</h2> <ul> <li>Panorama à 360°.</li> </ul> <h2>Bibliographie</h2> <ul> <li><em>Gita al Monte Ciamarella nelle Alpi Graie</em> par Paolo di St-Robert, <em>Bullettino del Club Alpino Italiano</em>, 1867-1868, n<sup>o</sup>10-11, p. 246-247.</li> <li><em>Alcuni dati sulle punte alpine situate fra la Levanna ed il Rocciamelone</em> par Bartolomeo Gastaldi, <em>Bullettino del Club Alpino Italiano</em>, 1867-1868, n<sup>o</sup>10-11, p. 289-290&#160;: date de la 1<sup>re</sup> ascension.</li> <li><em>Ascensione alla Ciamarella</em> par Alessandro Emilio Martelli, <em>L&#8217;Alpinista CAI</em>, 1875, n<sup>o</sup>3, p.37-38 de l&#8217;ascension de mars 1875.</li> </ul>

Grande Ciamarella depuis le refuge des Evettes

Plan des Evettes

<ul> <li>liste des sommets</li> <li>liste des refuges</li> <li>information Wikipédia sur les Alpes Grées</li> </ul>