Joyama (城山) - 200, crag - Japan

Joyama (城山)

Japan

200 m

Pedestrian access

To make it to the site, you can either come by car, or by train till Ohito (大仁). Then from the station, it is a 30 to 45mn walk to the bottom of the trail.

The access trail is easily identified thanks to the big sign shown on this picture]. After a 15mn hike, you’ll reach this sign]. The indicated path to the right leads to the south area (maybe another 2mn).

To make it to the other areas, keep on going uphill till reaching the ridge (10 more minutes), then take a right and follow the ridge for another 10mn. You should see small signs indicating wild boar on your right. Leave the ridge and go down another 5mn.

Details

The site can be divided in two parts:

  • the south and south-west areas, with multi-pitch routes, most of it being slab.

  • the other areas, mostly short and well protected sports climbing routes.

South and south-west areas Overall, the easiest areas, from 5.7 to 5.11a and from 1 to 6 pitch long. Bolts are sometimes a bit far one from another, but they are clean. Some pitons are still there, but you shouldn’t have to use them. The bottom of the routes is quite comfortable.

Other areas (Wild boar, Tube rock, …) Overall, shorter and tougher, from 5.5 to 5.14b. Bolts are close to each other and very goods.

Remarks

Haven’t found an official camping, though according to the guidebook, camping is tolerated on several close-by places (cf topo]). We tried the one close to the river, perfect.