Ob Savi [Dry-tooling] - 210, waterfall - Slovenia

Ob Savi [Dry-tooling]

Kamnik-Savinja Alps - Karavanke - Slovenia

210 m

Information
Source

Quite in the center of Slovenia, the dry-tooling site Ob Savi is right by the Sava. More than thirty routes between D5 and D9−, most of them between D8− and D8+.

Details

The cliff is on the right bank of the Sava, below road 108, approx. 2km away from the train station of Zagorje ob Savi. The names of the routes are discreetly marked at the foot of the routes. The climbing site was created and developed in 2009 by Vili Guček. Reequiped in 2018.

Access

  • Parking area of the Zagorje ob Savi train station. Road access : from Ljubljana, take road 108 that goes through Litija (E of Ljubljana). Public transportation : train Ljubljana to Zagorje (45min). http://www.slo-zeleznice.si/sl/potniki/slovenija/vozni-redi, or bus Ljubljana to Zagorje (bus station at the bridge crossing the Sava river, on the right bank). https://www.ap-ljubljana.si/en/timetable/
  • Note that there is a small parking niche approx. 150m upstream from where the path starts down, but not for more than four vehicles.

Approach

See Pedestrian access] (map).

Routes

Here below, the routes are ordered from right to left (downstream).

First corner # (short routes)

L#1 | Minutka za zdravje] | D6 | | | L#1 | Oaza miru] | D5+ | | | L#1 | Poledica] | D5 | | | L#1 | Jekleni prsti] | D7 | | | L#1 |Truplo v vodi | D8− | | |

Cave

L#1 |Inkvizicija | D8 | | | L#1 |Križanje | D9− | | | L#1 |Razodetje | D8+ | | | L#1 |Nekoristni svet | D8+ | | | L#1 |Razpelo | D8+ | | | L#1 |Z ognjem in mečem | D8 | | |

Central wall

L#1 |Zlom volje | D8− | | | L#1 |Odrešitev | D7 | | | L#1 |Delo osvobaja | D7+ | | | L#1 |Zamrznjeno seme | D8+ | | | L#1 |Krioterapija | D8+ | | | L#1 |Moški z jajci | D8+ | | | L#1 |Orodna telovadba | D8+ | | | L#1 |Kri in čast | D8+ | | | (left exit : Krvave ostroge D8+) L#1 | Izumrle ostroge] | D8− | | |

Left side

L#1 |Abalakov ] | D6 | | | (left exit : Abalakov plus D6+) L#1 |Šokabsorber | D8 | | | L#1 |Cepinodrom | D8 | | | L#1 |Cena užitka | D8− | | | L#1 |Bivak smrti | D7+ | | | L#1 |Podhladitev | D8− | | | L#1 | Špaltna] | D6 | | | L#1 |Beli ščit | D7+ | | |

End sector # (Short routes, roof starts)

L#1 | Lavina] | D7 | | | L#1 | Kloža] | D7− | | | L#1 | Opast] | D7− | | | L#1 | Serak] | D6+ | | | L#1 | Zdrs] | D6+ | | |

Remarks

  • Chain anchors.
  • The crag is not accessible in case of heavy floods (rare).
  • Guidebook for climbing with tools (dry-tooling) for the Zasavje region (Plezanje z orodji / dry-tooling v Zasavju), by Vili Guček.

Comparison table

An excerpt from the guidebook, this is a comparison table between french sport grades and the dry-tooling D grades.

L#= | 5ab | D4 L#= | 5c6a | D5 L#= | 6ab | D6 L#= | 6bc | D7 L#= | 6c7a | D8 L#= | 7ab | D9 L#= | 7bc | D10 L#= | 7c | D11 L#= | 8a | D12 L#= | 8b and more | D13