### Itinéraire
| Longueur | Description |
| -------- | ----------- |
| L1,M3+,45 m | Gravir la cheminée, et en sortir à droite pour rejoindre une vague goulotte raide. Relais sur un bloc à droite, où dans un large dièdre fissuré, sous le fil de l’arête. L1 débouche entre un gendarme caractéristique et un gros bloc carré. |
| L2,M2,40 m | Contourner le gros bloc carré par la droite et remonter au mieux sur l'arête. Relais au pied d'une autre tourelle anguleuse. |
| L3,M2,40 m | Rejoindre le fil de l'arête à droite de la tourelle et déboucher sur le sommet. |

Itinéraire classique, et évident, ouvert en 1907. Cotation écossaise&#160;: IV, 4. Monter au pied de l&#8217;éperon principal de la Central Buttress. Le départ se situe sur le versant E de l&#8217;arête / rampe (elle-même située à l&#8217;E d&#8217;un profond couloir caché derrière l&#8217;arête). L#| 45&#160;m| M3+ | Gravir la cheminée, et en sortir à droite pour rejoindre une vague goulotte raide. Relais sur un bloc à droite, où dans un large dièdre fissuré, sous le fil de l’arête. L1 débouche entre un gendarme caractéristique et un gros bloc carré. L#|40&#160;m| M2 | Contourner le gros bloc carré par la droite et remonter au mieux sur l&#8217;arête. Relais au pied d&#8217;une autre tourelle anguleuse. L#| 40&#160;m| M2 | Rejoindre le fil de l&#8217;arête à droite de la tourelle et déboucher sur le sommet. Descente vers l&#8217;W pour revenir en arc de cercle au pied de la face N.

Stob Coire nan Lochan - United Kingdom

Lost valley de Glencoe...

Paysages des Highlands

Le bas de la Lost Valley et l'accès à la face N du Stob Coire nan Lochan

Les cerfs sont de sortie

Vue vers la Lost Valley et le Stob Coire nan Lochan

voies

Central Buttress et, à droite, l'arête de Raeburn's route

Stob Coire nan Lochan - Raeburn's Route (Ordinary Route on Central Buttress)

Camptocamp

camptocamp

##Approche
C'est la goulotte évidente à gauche de la grande tour de gauche.

##La goulotte
5 longueurs en neige, glace avec petit crux mixte en L2 et L4. Des variantes à gauche et à droite en grade V (twisting groove et T G right fork).

##Descente
Descente par les couloirs de gauche ou de droite

<h2>Approche</h2> C&#8217;est la goulotte évidente à gauche de la grande tour de gauche. <h2>La goulotte</h2> 5 longueurs en neige, glace avec petit crux mixte en L2 et L4. Des variantes à gauche et à droite en grade V (twisting groove et T G right fork). <h2>Descente</h2> Descente par les couloirs de gauche ou de droite

Twisting gully

### Route

Route following a striking line of weakness in the center of a big buttress.  
3-star route, according to the SMC guidebook!

| Pitch | Description |
| ----- | ----------- |
| L1,30m | Start up a deep chimney with small overhanging sections. When exiting this deep chimney, continue up a more shallow groove to a belay (3 pitons) to your left. When well filled with ice, protection is hard to find, but slightly easier to climb. |
| L2,40m | Continue up the shallow groove turning slightly to your right following a couple of ledges. Easiest of the 3 main pitches. End on a large ledge under a large overhanging rock where you make a belay on gear. |
| L3,30m | Start off the ledge to your left to reach a large V-groove. Move up this groove ending in a small overhang with chockstones but easy to move out. Make a belay on gear on the spur. |
| L4,20m | Climb easily to reach the plateau. |

**Grades given on C2C are approximations as this route is graded by Scottish Winter quotation VI/6. This is hard to translate into M or ice climbing grades!**

Route following a striking line of weakness in the center of a big buttress. 3-star route, according to the SMC guidebook! L#| |30m|Start up a deep chimney with small overhanging sections. When exiting this deep chimney, continue up a more shallow groove to a belay (3 pitons) to your left. When well filled with ice, protection is hard to find, but slightly easier to climb. L#| |40m| Continue up the shallow groove turning slightly to your right following a couple of ledges. Easiest of the 3 main pitches. End on a large ledge under a large overhanging rock where you make a belay on gear. L#| |30m|Start off the ledge to your left to reach a large V-groove. Move up this groove ending in a small overhang with chockstones but easy to move out. Make a belay on gear on the spur. L#| |20m| Climb easily to reach the plateau. Grades given on C2C are approximations as this route is graded by Scottish Winter quotation VI/6. This is hard to translate into M or ice climbing grades!

Stob Coire nan Lochan - Chimney Route (VI/6)

User

### Climbing‑route description

3 star route of exceptional beauty. Guide book describes it as "one of Scotlands best mixed climbs".

| Pitch | Description |
| ----- | ----------- |
| L1 | Climb the grooves at the center/lowest point on the buttress for 30m to reach an old belay on pegs right of a slightly overhanging corner. The climbing is hard from step 1! Not many good cracks for torquing and protection is hard to find! |
| L2 | Climb the overhanging corner for 20m to reach a belay-ledge to your right with a very good horizontal crack to make a belay. OR climb 5m higher to reach another ledge on the left, but less obvious possibility for making a belay. |
| L3 | Climb the groove which goes to the right of a big, buttress-like wall (slightly overhanging). If you chose the highest of the 2 proposed belays after P2, the crux section is right off that ledge with a few engaged and unprotected moves, although the real crux is the fact that the pitch is so sustained in length and technical difficulty. A little higher there is a peg. continue up the corner-system for 50m. Right before the last right-hand turn, there is another peg with a (new) bulldog besides it to your left (we left it there, since we didn't see the peg and couldn't get it out anymore afterwards..). Continue up for 8m to reach a spur and make a belay there. |
| L4 | Climb easily for 30m to reach the plateau. No surprises here! |

**Grades given on C2C are approximations as this route is graded by Scottish Winter quotation VII/7. This is hard to translate into M or ice climbing grades!**

3 star route of exceptional beauty. Guide book describes it as &#8220;one of Scotlands best mixed climbs&#8221;. L#||| Climb the grooves at the center/lowest point on the buttress for 30m to reach an old belay on pegs right of a slightly overhanging corner. The climbing is hard from step 1! Not many good cracks for torquing and protection is hard to find! L#||| Climb the overhanging corner for 20m to reach a belay-ledge to your right with a very good horizontal crack to make a belay. OR climb 5m higher to reach another ledge on the left, but less obvious possibility for making a belay. L#||| Climb the groove which goes to the right of a big, buttress-like wall (slightly overhanging). If you chose the highest of the 2 proposed belays after P2, the crux section is right off that ledge with a few engaged and unprotected moves, although the real crux is the fact that the pitch is so sustained in length and technical difficulty. A little higher there is a peg. continue up the corner-system for 50m. Right before the last right-hand turn, there is another peg with a (new) bulldog besides it to your left (we left it there, since we didn&#8217;t see the peg and couldn&#8217;t get it out anymore afterwards..). Continue up for 8m to reach a spur and make a belay there. L#||| Climb easily for 30m to reach the plateau. No surprises here! Grades given on C2C are approximations as this route is graded by Scottish Winter quotation VII/7. This is hard to translate into M or ice climbing grades!

Stob Coire nan Lochan - Central Grooves (VII/7)

United Kingdom

Le Stob Coire nan Lochan domine la &#8220;Lost valley&#8221;, au-dessus de la vallée de Glencoe. On y accède depuis la route, où on se gare à l&#8217;un des 3 parkings de la passe de Glencoe après le Loch Achtriochtan.