<p>Splendida guglia, isolata e selvaggia, che domina i pascoli desolati e reconditi del circo delle Trubinasca. Il lungo avvicinamento, la complessa logistica, malgrado la relativa brevità e facilità della salita, fanno sì che l&#8217;ascensione - sulle orme della grande guida di Sils - debba essere considerata di tutto rispetto. Raramente percorsa e quindi ancor più affascinante, offre suggestivi scorci sul versante bregagliotto, dominato dalla nordovest del Badile.</p> <h2>Avvicinamento</h2> <p>Ci sono due possibilità: salire da Novate (300&#160;m) al Rifugio Brasca (1304&#160;m) e al Bivacco Pedroni Dal Prà, in circa 6-7 ore. Oppure da Bondo località Ceresc (1284&#160;m) raggiungere la Bocchetta della Teggiola (2490&#160;m), scendere circa 250&#160;m in Val Codera e risalire al Bivacco (5 ore abbondanti). Per la salita calcolare circa tre-quattro ore (dopo tre quarti d&#8217;ora di avvicinamento dal bivacco). Dalla vetta al fondovalle 5-6 ore almeno.</p> <h2>Via</h2> <p><em>Da completare&#8230;</em> Vedere schizzo.</p> <h2>Discesa</h2> <p>Dalla vetta ci si cala sul versante opposto (sud) con tre doppie attrezzate su cordoni, fino a raggiungere la forcella che separa la Punta di Trubinasca dalla S.Anna. Da qui si percorre a ritroso il canale evidente che scende all&#8217;ormai esangue ghiacciaio (tracciato verde) con facili passi in arrampicata e qualche breve doppia.</p> <ul> <li>8 lunghezze</li> <li>Impegno: 2-via di varie lunghezze, oltre i 200 metri, avvicinamento da 1 ora, ritirata comoda</li> <li>Attrezzatura: via alpinistica con protezioni tradizionali, mediamente proteggibile, con protezioni più rade, ma voli senza conseguenze (R2)</li> <li>Difficoltà: V/Ao</li> <li>Roccia: gneiss</li> <li>Accesso stradale: Milano ­ Lecco ­ Colico ­ Novate Mezzola Oppure proseguire fino a Chiavenna ­ Castasegna ­ Bondo ­ strada a pedaggio per la Val Bondasca, con deviazione a destra per Ceresc.</li> <li>Logistica: Bivacco Pedroni-Dal Prà (ex Vaninetti) 2600&#160;m ­ coperte e accessori.</li> </ul>

Punta di Trubinasca - Engadine - Disgrazia - Italy

Punta di Trubinasca - Via Klucker

Camptocamp

camptocamp

<h2>Approach # 30-40 min</h2> <p>From Bivacco Pedroni Dal Pra. Starts 20m from the S Ridge in the corner (selection of the right corner is quite unclear).</p> <h2>Route</h2> <p>Generally the route follows the corner and crossing little ridge to the left if the corner becomes more difficult. There is a belaying station in the second parallel corner under a overhang. Following the second corner (left at the beginning) and later still up you will reach a main south ridge. Next two easier pitches are just following the ridge and crossing little “towers” on it. 5th pitch starts under large chimney closed by hanging boulder, approximately 15-20m left from the south ridge. Climbing right side of the chimney and passing the boulder directly seems to be easiest way. The chimney /corner will lead you on the top (2 pitches).</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>Rappel down using “Trubifix” route.</p> <ul> <li>Few quite old pittons can be found.</li> </ul>

1621725097.8284

1621725101.1579

1621725108.613

1621725115.3525

Punta di Trubinasca - Spigolo Ovest-Sud

<p>It is a variant of NW Grat (C. Klucker, M. Barbaria, 1900).</p> <h2>Route</h2> <p>It&#8217;s following apparent “silver” vein left from Trubifix route. It starts in a corner 5m right from the vein. Directly up, crossing little overhang, you will reach the “silver” vein (one piton left). Then just follow the vein (slippery ledge, cracks, corner) to the belaying station bellow an overhang (2 nd piton left). From the belaying station climb to the right over an edge, crossing a corner and just follow the “silver” vein to the large (hugge) corner. Continue following the corner up until reaching belaying station with ring. Follow NW Grat (C. Kucker, M. Barbaria, 1900) to the top of the mountain. First pitch has 53m and difficulty 6a. Second pitch could be 45m 5c+.</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>Rappel down using “Trubifix” route.</p>

1621867537.9048

1621867541.89

1621867546.9535

Punta di Trubinasca - Silver Ribbon Variant

<p>The Route is a variant of Spigolo Ovest-Sud] (G. Cristofaro, R. Minazzi, Pinardi, Riva, 1935).</p> <h2>Route</h2> <p>From 6 pitches are two partialy same with the original &#8220;Spigolo Ovest-Sud&#8221;. It starts in the corner close to edge approximately 20m right from the “Spigolo Ovest Sud”. Climb up the corner approx. 8m. Then cross (traverse) slab to the right (bolt) until reaching crack system. Then follow crack to the corner until corner ends (possible alternative belaying station for 50m ropes). Short slab with finger cracks will lead you bellow overhang hand-crack. Climb the crack to the belaying station with two bolts (6a+, 55m). Second pitch is crossing slab and following a corner and ridge to the ledge bellow short vertical wall. Cross the wall and continue still following ridge (passing &#8220;menhir&#8221;) and crossing small “towers” to the 2 nd (40m, 5b), 3rd (35m, 3-4) and 4th (35m, 3-4) belaying station. 4th belaying station is placed in a corner bellow crack approximately 25m right from final chimney of the “Spigolo Ovest-Sud” route really close to the south edge. From 4th belaying station climb up by the wide (Off width) and hand-crack to the ledge (bolt) and still up following hand crack in a corner until the corner´s end (5th belay station with two bolts. 5c+, 40m). 6th pitch follows edge (35m, 4) leads to the top. 3rd and 4th pitches are partially the same as “Spigolo Ovest-Sud”.</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>Rappel down using “Trubifix” route.</p> <p>60m has been used but there are good alternative belaying stations for 50m ropes as well.</p>

1621725122.1468

1621725125.694

1621725133.5525

Punta di Trubinasca - The New Ridge

Italy

Punta di Trubinasca

Engadin - Disgrazia

Punta di Trubinasca

Routes

Punta di Trubinasca - Engadine - Disgrazia - Italy

Punta di Trubinasca - Engadine - Disgrazia - Italy

Punta di Trubinasca - Engadine - Disgrazia - Italy

Punta di Trubinasca - Engadine - Disgrazia - Italy