Yaomei Feng / Siguniang IV - 6250, culmen - China
Yaomei Feng / Siguniang IV

Yaomei Feng / Siguniang IV


6250 m


Mount Siguniang is a chain comprising four main peaks. The highest of them is Yaomei Feng reaching 6250m in Qionglai shan, Sichuan Province. Yaomei in Chinese means the youngest sister.


In 1981, a Japanese team made the first ascent Yaomei Feng via the SE ridge in siege style. Later in 20 years only another two successful ascents by a Japanese team and Charlie Fowler. Yaomei Feng is not known to westerns until Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden opened a 1500m vertical line on the NW face which won them a Piolet d’Or award. Since then, many teams came to Mount Siguniang range looking for unclimbed walls. Until now, there are still several unclimbed walls waiting for the first ascent.

The status of the routes and attempts on the fourth sister is, as of February 2021, the following:

South Side

  • 1981 - Japanese team, SE ridge. First ascent of the mountain. Summit. Style: expedition siege.
  • 1987 - Kate Bull and Keith Brown - attempt on SW face, reach 5700m
  • 1992 - Japanese team, SW ridge. Summit. Style: expedition siege.
  • 1997 - Charlie Fowler (USA), variation of the first Japanese route. Summit. Style: solo/alpine
  • 2003 - Jon Otto (USA), T Boelter (USA), variation on the first Japanese route. Failed. Style: expedition siege
  • 2004 - Jon Otto (USA) and a Chinese team, variation on the first Japanese route. Summit. Style: expedition siege.
  • 2004 ? - Russian attempt on S face. Failed. No details.
  • 2006 - Cosmin Andron (Romania), Waiwah Yip (UK) (July) - SW face First ascent; no summit intended. Style: big wall
  • 2006 - Sun Bin (China) - (September-October) several attempts on th SE face (Ch. Fowler route). Failed. Style: solo/alpine
  • 2006 - Philippe Batoux (France) and French team (October-November) - attempt of new line on the S face. Failed. Style: alpine
  • 2008 - D. Johnson, C. Kellog, (September) - SW ridge First ascent. Style: alpine.
  • 2008 - Zhongji Expedition - attempt on S face central pilar
  • 2009 - Zhou Peng and Yan Dongdong - Central south face
  • 2011 - Sun Bin and Li Zongli - S face to SW ridge
  • 2014 - Liu Zhixiong and Hu Jiaping - Central S face - Summit and tragedy
  • 2016 - Luo Biao and Gu Qizhi - S face to SW ridge
  • 2017 - Huang Siyuan and Li Haoxin - S face to SW ridge
  • 2020 - Wang Yongpeng, Chen Chujun and Hua Feng - Central S face

North Side

  • 1981 - Jack Tackle (USA), Jim Donini (USA), Kim Schmitz (USA) - attempt on the NW face. Failed. Style: big wall
  • 2002 - M. Fowler (UK), P. Ramsden (First ascent) (April) - First ascent of the NW face. Summit. Style: alpine
  • 2004 - Tom Chamberlain (UK), Dave Evans (UK), Andy Sharpe (UK), Dave Hollinger (UK) (May) - attempt on the NW face. Failed. Style: alpine
  • 2005 - Chad Kellogg (USA), Joe Puryear (USA) and Stoney Richards (USA) (September-October) - attempt on the NW face. Failed. Style: big wall
  • 2006 - P Batoux and French team (October-November), First ascent of Siguniang N independent peak. Summit. Style: alpine
  • 2006 - Japanese team (November-December) - attempt on the NW face. Failed. Style: ?
  • 2007 - C. Andron, L. Fucsko, E. Camerzan, L. Neagoe, I. Neagoe (January-February 2007)- attempt on the NW face. Failed. Style: big wall
  • 2009 - Valery Shamalo, Vladimir Volodozhen, Denis Sushko and Andrey Muryshev - NW face
  • 2011 - Dimitri Messina and Mael Baguet - NW face
  • 2020 - Chen Hui - attempt on NW face

East Side

  • 1987 - Jim Sutton, Kate Bull, Steve Wills and Keith Brown - attempt on E face, reach 5800m