
Details
This description is for three routes each of 2 or 3 pitches, which when combined give a very good introduction to climbing slabby, limestone runnels (cannelures.) The routes are 3-4m apart at the left hand of the crag and the each second pitch follows the line of an obvious runnel. The runnels are not visible from below, but are reached by starting up the second, third and fourth line of bolts from the left end of the crag.
N.B. The first line of bolts is a three pitch route at 4b, (keep to the left for the third pitch.) Each pitch is about 18m long. In between the three main runnels are fainter runnel lines with some, (sparse,) bolts. These lines reputedly go at 6a/6a+.
Routes
Route 1: # Bolted on hold at the start.
L# | 17m |4c | Polished L# | 40m |5b+ | Follow the most obvious runnel, 6 bolts. (N.B. another runnel, just to the left, fades at half height.) It is possible to split the pitch after 25m
Route 2: # Starts just to the left of a double tree
L# | 18m |4c | Polished, hanging belay. L# | 40m |5b | A fine runnel in the centre of the slab. The difficulties ease after 25m, (where it is possible to make a belay.)
Route 3: # Starts up the bolts just right of the double tree.
L# | 17m |4c| Polished L# | 40m |5b+| The right hand of the three runnel lines. It is possible to traverse right after about 15m to gain a more pronounced pair of runnels. This gives easier climbing, but without any bolts for 12-15m. At the belay chains continue more easily for 15m to the top.
Descent
It is just possible to abseil back down with new 60m ropes. If not make two abseils, stopping at any of the many bolted belays. It is also possible to walk back down from the top of the routes, (going to the right looking upwards.)
The bottom part of the crag is used a lot by school parties top-roping, hence the polish.

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