Aletschhorn - Haslerrippe and NE Ridge

Classic route, for unknown reasons currently infrequently climbed. Combination of glaciers, snow faces, rock ridges, and (sharp) snow ridges. Can be quite long following this entire route. Note that the Mittelaletschbiwak currently is destroyed.

Approach

Descend the stairs from the Konkordiahütte to the Konkordiaplatz. Note from above that one can circumvent most of the moraines on the right. Cross the Konkordiaplatz to the Grosser Aletschfirn. Mind the crevasses which are parallel to your direction. Note the flat area in the centre may be very wet or just thinly frozen. Better circumvent that on the N side.

Route

From the Grosser Aletschfirn climb up to the straight rock rib which ends on the little peak at 3718 meter. This can either be done all the way over rock, or starting more to the left over snow. The snow can pose considerable risks. The rock is generally very crumbly, but never hard to climb. From the peak follow the ridge in SW direction. Rocky at first, sharp and corniced snow later on. From the following plain, obviously climb up the pre summit to 4087 meter. Above the Schrund this gets pretty steep. We chose to climb to the sharp NW snow ridge first and follow that to the summit. Over the next plain follow the round ridge up to the last Schrund. Cross the Schrund at a convenient point, easiest on the right. Follow the mostly rocky easy ridge to the summit.

Descent

Retreat the same way to the little peak. Cross that into the Aletschjoch and follow the mostly sharp snow ridge to the end. Descend over a mildly steep short snow face. Follow the Mittelaletschgletscher, mostly over the left side. Mind that the steep rock section has to be passed on the orographic RIGHT side of the main stream. There are big red/white markings, but currently they can not be seen from above! This trail ends through a loose gully upto foul ice. The foul ice looks quite scary being undercut by a lot of water, but (depending on current condition) can be crossed. Follow the continuation of the glacier through a long valley with lot of ice, rocks and moraines. End on the left side over trails through grassy terrain. Step up the Aletschgletscher. This starts with pretty mild seracs and crevasses, but one can end up in very wild and dangerous terrain (as we did). PROBABLY one can best follow an arch below the faint icefall in SE direction, ending underneath Roti Chumma. On that point there should be a way of stepping off the ice to the trail that runs there, continuing to Märjelen.