Punta Torelli - End Of Season - Punta Torelli - Engadine - Disgrazia - Italie
Punta Torelli - End Of Season

Punta Torelli - End Of Season

Altitude min / max2500m / 3070m
Durée1 jour
OrientationNO
Type d'itinéraireAller-retour
Équipement60m ropes, set of friends, set of ballnuts (or couple of pittons), some nuts and slings.
Source

Details

End Of Season is a relatively new route (approx. 400m, max. 6a+) in the NW wall of Punta Torelli (3137m). Belays are protected by stainless bolts. Route is reachable from bivouac Pedroni-Dal Prá located in upper part of Val Codera (Italy).

Approach

Route starts from left side of a large terrace usually covered by snow patch (please see topo). The terrace is reachable from Bivouac Pedroni-Del Prá in 45 min (walking by icefield or gravel “stairs” and finally easy scrambling).

Route

L# | 5b | 56m | Two variants are possible. 1. Directly up (from belay with bolts) ussing cracks (5b). 1. An easy climb (3) ussing large corner right from the first belay. L# | 3 | 55m | Easy corner climb. Follow the corner until reaching belay. L# | 6a | 55m | From a large ledge climb a bit left and later right using delicate thin cracks in a slab. Finally cross a ridge into a corner. L# | 5a | 45m | Follow the corner untill reaching ledge (belay) bellow nearly vertical wall. L# | 5c | 40m | From belay just climb up following a prominent crack. L# | 5a | 40m | Continue ussing the crack until its end on a ledge bellow a overhang (some loose stones!) L# | 6a+ | 40m | Traverse right bellow an overhang with crack (off width). The crack will help you reaching a slanting ramp (some snow can appear on the ramp depending season). Follow the ramp to the left. It will lead you to the vertical finger crack. Climb the crack (could be wet 6a+ or even 6b) to the belay. L# | 5a | 50m | Climb up slabs and corners until reaching the last protected belay L# | 3-4 | 20m | Easy but a bit unstable terrain leading to a walkable ridge.

Descent

Best descent : scramble down in direction of the Gianetti hut. Returning into Val Codera is possible by crossing Passo Porcelizzo.

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