Traverse Vierge → Petit Flambeau

Approach

From the top station of the new cable car, descend the lift to the “new” Torino hut. Go onto the glacier here and follow the well beaten way up to the Col des Flambeaux. (It is likely that in the future a way out onto the glacier directly from the top station will be made.) The summit of the Petit Flambeau is just a short distance to the north. Go down the glacier to the left of the summit (W), being careful of crevasses, until you reach a little col at the foot of the Vierge. 40-50 mins from the hut.

Route

La Vierge

It is possible to leave the sacs at the start of this section. There is an old wire cable, take a line just to the right of this which in about 20m leads to a little corner. This is climbed to a good ledge and abseil sling. An easy traverse, firstly horizontal then down to a gap before climbing back up to a good ledge with nut belays. There now follows some airy scrambling to another abseil sling and then 5m higher a sling just below the pointed summit. Return the same way, the first abseil is about 12m the second about 22m.

Petit Flambeau

Now follow the ridge, broken rocks at first with a couple of steeper sections to reach a snow crest which leads to the summit of the Petit Flambeau. Some rocks then snow leads quickly back to the Col des Flambeaux. 1.5-2.5h for up and down the Vierge, about 1h from the foot of the Vierge to the Col des Flambeaux.

Descent

Follow the approach path back to the Torino hut. 20 mins