Cogne - Valnontey - Fiumana di Money - Cogne - Valnontey - Gran Paradiso - Italy

Cogne - Valnontey - Fiumana di Money

Cogne - Valnontey - Gran Paradiso - Italy

Information
Min / max altitude1666m / 2000m
Duration1 day
Main facingN
Route typereturn_same_way
Source

Approach : # 2h

From Cogne drive to Valnontey car park; take the Climbers’ path to a junction (signposted - Other Routes) and take the L fork. Follow this higher path along the true right bank. Pass the ‘Patri’ turning (sign) continuing along the main path to the ‘Erfaulet’ bridge. Do not cross the bridge; instead continue left until below the Repentance wall; sign ‘Flash Estivo’. Turn left to climb the path into the RH bay (Repentance and Mondey Money are in the LH bay) Fiumana Money is the RH icefall. (Flash Estivo is the LH icefall.)

Route

L# | 3 40m Climb up the middle, belay on ice screws. L# | 2 40m Continue staight up to the rocks on the right, peg belay. L# | 2 40m Go diagonally leftwards, belay on one old bolt and some pegs under a little roof.(true left bank of the gully). L# | 3 45m Take the easiest line up a bulge in the middle and come back to the right to a bolt belay. L# | 3 50m Go up the middle of the last steep section, bolt belay on the right, fairly high up in the rocks, or on the left higher up, (55-60m ropes.)

Descent

Abseil (2×50 m OK), ice column for the last abseil point.

A broad icefall giving lots of variations.

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