Cogne - Valeille - Vertigine Porcellana
Approach # 1h (or up to 3h!)
From Lillaz, go past the camping, then the track for walkers, (or the langlauf track). Pass the bridge, then follow the signposted path on the true left flank of the valley. Pass under the Tuborg, Il Candellabro del Coyote and Chandelle Levure icefalls, then under an obvious ravine. Vertigine Porcellana is in the next ravine, which is also an avalanche gully: check it has purged! Go up the gully, some belays on the right, 35/40°.
L# | : 30m, 70°. Belay on the right, two bolts. L# | : 55m, 30m at 85°, then 10 m at 70° and lastly 7-8m at 85°. Belay with two bolts on the right.
Abseil, the first abseil is a full 50m!
This icefall seems to be often in condition. However, it is not done that often. The Damilano guidebook grades the route 3.
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