Cogne - Valeille - Vertigine Porcellana - Cogne - Valeille - Gran Paradiso - Italy

Cogne - Valeille - Vertigine Porcellana

Cogne - Valeille - Gran Paradiso - Italy

Information
Min / max altitude1500m / 1900m
Duration1 day
Route typereturn_same_way
Source

Approach # 1h (or up to 3h!)

From Lillaz, go past the camping, then the track for walkers, (or the langlauf track). Pass the bridge, then follow the signposted path on the true left flank of the valley. Pass under the Tuborg, Il Candellabro del Coyote and Chandelle Levure icefalls, then under an obvious ravine. Vertigine Porcellana is in the next ravine, which is also an avalanche gully: check it has purged! Go up the gully, some belays on the right, 35/40°.

Route

L# |  : 30m, 70°. Belay on the right, two bolts. L# |  : 55m, 30m at 85°, then 10 m at 70° and lastly 7-8m at 85°. Belay with two bolts on the right.

Descent

Abseil, the first abseil is a full 50m!

This icefall seems to be often in condition. However, it is not done that often. The Damilano guidebook grades the route 3.

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