Details
Approach - Variant 1 Follow the road along the true right bank of the river. After the shooting range, continue along the dirt road. Cross the river at the ford then take the small path on the true left which goes up the scree between the river and the cliffs. The start of the ridge is written on the rock. - Variant 2 Follow the road along the true right bank of the river to the shooting range. Cross the river here, signpost direction “Vex”. Follow the marked hiking path until it starts to climb upwards. Follow a smaller path along the bank of the river, passing a bridge that goes along the cliff, then walk along a large pipe until, near the ford, you can go up with the aid of a ladder. Take the path which leads up to the foot of the ridge.
Route L1 4b
L2 5b
Walk for 15m to the left to the foot of the next pitch. L3 5c Do not stop at the uncomfortable belay at the top of the corner. L4 5c+ There is a belay just above the difficulties. If you stop here the last pitch is 49m. There is another belay about 10 to 15 m higher up.
L5 4b+
Descent On foot by a marked path. You arrive at the river further down the valley about 5min from the start of the route.
Variant: It is possible to reach the ledge at the start of pitch 3 in one pitch of the route Mine de rien (5b/5c, see Topo Escalade en Valais Central)
• To avoid getting a parking ticket, please leave your vehicle at the car park in the centre of the Bramois village.
• in 2017 extra bolts were added to pitches 3, 4 and 5 to make the route less serious.
• There was a rockfall at the S ridge in 2018. The classic route was not affected except at the ledge before pitch 3. There is now a fixed rope there.

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