Details
Approach
As for the normal route, but go to the right at the level of the first bolt to make a belay at the foot of a chimney corner. (You can climb this pitch even if someone is on the normal route, without causing problems.)
Route
L# | 5b | 15m | Start as for the normal route, then at the level of the first bolt go to the right to make a belay at the foot of an obvious chimney corner, (no in-situ gear, a used sling visible in the corner.)
L# | 6a | 40m | Climb the corner, a move of 6a at the level of a little overhang, with a mantleshelf/pull-up on smallish flakes, then easier towards the ridge on cracked rocks. (Belay at the foot of a large, closed corner.) L# | 5c | 25m | Climb up the back of the corner, then slightly to the right on the ridge. Belay at the top of the corner. L# | 5c+ | 30m | Climb a slightly overhanging crack, then continue until vertically below the fixed ropes on the normal route. L# | 5c+ | 30m | Climb the wall by a crack system on the right to reach a peg, (clearly visible from below,) in a slab. (Easier than it looks.) Make an upwards traverse to the right to reach the front of the pillar. Belay at a large block on the ridge. L# | 5b | 45m | Climb an obvious crack system, then belay at the level of the normal route at the end of the difficulties. L#| | 100m | Move together until the two summits, the furthest one is the highest.
Descent
In 3 abseils, (bolted) down the S face. See description for normal route for more information.

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